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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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New York Times Magazine
Amanda Hesser - Style Section

Recipe Redux 1879: Peppermints at New York Times Magazine
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Recipe Redux 1879: Peppermints

Why make peppermints when you can buy them? Because, as with freshly squeezed lemonade, the flavor is much more vibrant when homemade.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 December 7 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
December 7, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Saffron Roasted Cauliflower at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Saffron Roasted Cauliflower
The glamorous spices (what, you don't think of saffron as glamorous?) together with the roasting method efficiently offset the cabbage-like acerbity that cauliflower detractors whine about, leaving you with golden florets so flavorsome you'll have to fight the temptation to just transfer the batch to a big bowl and eat the whole thing while watching a movie - unless that's your initial plan, of course.
 

Washington Post - Jane Black - Food & Dining Washington Post
Jane Black - Food & Dining

Do Try This at Home
Can a home cook - without an army of sous-chefs and pricey gadgets - actually make this food? More important, would anyone even want to? At close inspection, none of Alinea's recipes requires terribly advanced techniques. But the dishes are intricate, requiring patience, time - and a lot of dishwashing. To make the liquefied popcorn, Blymire used 17 bowls, pots, strainers, utensils and glasses for weighing, cooking, blending and serving the tiny post-dessert shot. And that was one of the easy ones.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

"Waiter, there's something in my... roast pork!" - an Aus...Open Zoom Window 370 x 501Close Zoom Window

"Waiter, there's something in my... roast pork!" - an Austrian Schweinsbraten 101
The issue of what constitutes a traditional roast pork with all its trimmings is, of course, hotly debated. Some will eat it with dumplings (and there are more varieties of those than I can count on my chubby fingers), others with potatoes, some with cabbage wedges (Stöckelkraut), others with cabbage salad (Krautsalat with crispy bacon)... and although almost every region I know makes their Schweinbraten with tons of garlic (step aside, 100-clove-chicken!), the Viennese insist that the protagonist of their version should be caraway (Kuemmelbraten), with a mere hint of garlic instead.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Now is a Very Good Time to Buy Wine
While the wine industry has trailed the general market malaise and the dive has not been as precipitous, things are tough right now in the world of wine. And the more expensive the wine, the tougher things are. It's a sad, sad thing that I even have to think about it, but I must make clear that the article above doesn't constitute investment advice in any way, shape, or form. I'm not a professional, and if you buy wine based on what I say and lose your hard earned savings, then you should just open the damn bottles and drown your sorrows because it won't be my fault.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Chicken and Dumplings at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 460 x 307Close Zoom Window

Chicken and Dumplings
Chicken and dumplings - the ultimate comfort food. When we were kids, my mother used to make chicken and dumplings for us by simply adding Bisquick biscuit dough to chicken stew. We would always fight over the dumplings. (Ever wonder why people from big families eat fast? The first kid who finished could get seconds on the dumplings.) Making dumplings that are tasty, light, yet hold together isn't a given. The Bisquick version, although light and fluffy, tends to fall apart.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Robert Parker Jr.
This week it's the story behind the wine world's most revered and feared critic. One bad review from him can take a wine down. He's Robert Parker, Jr. and his power is both rare and absolute. We'll find out what shapes and informs his legendary palate. Who but the Sterns would go for apple pancakes with potato pancakes on the side? Christopher Kimball of America's Test Kitchen stops by with this year's crop of top kitchen gadgets just in time for holiday gifting. Food scientist to the pros and award-winning author Shirley Corriher is back and she's talking cookie control - what we need to know for successful baking that no one else tells us. Tea merchant Bill Waddington shares some interesting tea customs, and Hillary Carlip lets us in on an unusual kind of culinary collectible.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Amanda Hesser  - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Amanda Hesser - Style Section

Recipe Redux 1879: Peppermints
Once cooled, the candy looked like a shiny, amber inkblot, attractive, certainly, but not terribly promising. It wasn't candy as we know it. Then I tasted a piece and suddenly understood why you would in fact want to make your own candy at home. The caramelization of the sugar gave it an unexpected buttery flavor and bitterness, and the peppermint was alive in a way that you would never find in store-bought confections. Plus it took me all of five minutes to whip together. I like that the candies are a dark caramel color and that the mint comes as a surprise to all who try them.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Jacques Genin Opens in Paris at David LebovitzOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Jacques Genin Opens in Paris
The first thing he did when he saw me was to pop a long chocolate éclair in my mouth. Which, as anyone who's visited his workshop with me on a Paris chocolate tour, will get a chuckle out of. He likes to give me a hard time, which in France, means he really likes me. (Or so I'm told.) I sampled plenty of chocolates, including ones flavored with fresh mint, pu er tea, and grapefruit zest. He's keeping his other workshop going, but this store features a café, for those wanting to indulge in a creamy éclair au chocolat or a caramel cream-filled Paris-Brest, and perhaps a chocolat chaud. And those caramels. Oh yes...those heavenly caramels...
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Perfect Pecan Pie
First, I discovered that lightly toasting the nuts before putting them in the pie improves both their flavor and texture. Then, after having one too many pies come out burnt on top and soupy in the middle I adjusted the heat and discovered that pecan pies are best baked gently. The biggest breakthrough of all, though - the one that takes this pie out of the clouds and catapults it into the stratosphere - happened when I moved to corn-syrup-less Europe and discovered that not only was one of the most delicious sweetening agents ever invented all but unknown in my country, but it makes the best pecan pie this side of Kentucky (if not even better!). The miracle nectar?
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Spelt Everything Crackers at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 332Close Zoom Window

Spelt Everything Crackers
Did you know that you can make crackers at home? Crackers that are completely natural, have no funky or suspicious ingredients and also don't cost more than pennies? And addressing my pet peeve: crackers that are actually firm enough for you to spread cheese and other deliciousness over? I bet you think I am talking crazy [I almost said "crackers" - see how I restrained myself there?] but for once, I'm not.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

For That Very Reason
And they're very, very delicious, which is all that matters. They may be modest little ladies - yes, somehow, they seem female to me; I can't explain it - but they're beguiling: delicate and not too sweet, rich with the flavor of pure butter and tender enough to melt the second they meet your tongue. The first one I tasted made my eyes roll back in my head, and that doesn't usually happen unless there is chocolate involved. I found the recipe in this month's Gourmet, and it sounded so perfectly simple that I had to try it. Having now tried it, I can well understand its longevity. It is, without a doubt, a keeper.
 

New York Times - Mark Bittman - Dining and Wine New York Times
Mark Bittman - Dining and Wine

Sorbet? Let's Make It Short and Sweet at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 286Close Zoom Window

Sorbet? Let's Make It Short and Sweet
The first time I made this sorbet I was ridiculously happy, and I can almost guarantee that you will be, too. It is the epitome of a minimalist recipe, requiring no exotic ingredients, no technique and virtually no time. If you can shop and press the button on your food processor you can make this sorbet - and make it while you are loading the dishwasher with plates from dinner. Turn the machine on and process until you get the consistency you are after; be careful not to over-process it or you will have a smoothie.
 

Alinea at Home - Carol Blymire Alinea at Home
Carol Blymire

Caramel Popcorn, Liquefied
Do you know how LONG it's been since I made real popcorn? Like in a pot with oil? So, maybe 1975? 1976? Wow. And now, 32 years later, I'm back in the fold and making popcorn the old-fashioned way, forever and ever, amen, because dude, EVERY kernel popped, and not one single kernel or piece burned or stuck to the pan. Wow. Sometimes, things from the olden days really do work better. Now GET OFF MY LAWN, you meddling kids. Ahem.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Ginger Jeweled Salad Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Ginger Jeweled Salad Recipe
This is the time of year to add a bit of flash and color to your food. The skies are low-hanging and weepy. The days are short, getting shorter. In protest, each December, I arm myself with all manner of dried fruits, juicy citrus, and rosy pomegranates. They work beautifully in salads, including this jewel-inspired ensemble I made the other night. Mixed leafy salad greens, wild rice, toasted hazelnuts, dried figs and pluots are combined in a big bowl and then tossed with a simple ginger juice vinaigrette spiked with just a hint of jalapeno. It's festive with enough going on flavor-wise to keep people guessing.
 


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