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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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November 2008
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New York Times Magazine
Heidi Julavits - Style Section

The Way We Eat: Grain Exchange at New York Times Magazine
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The Way We Eat: Grain Exchange

Are farro and spelt really interchangeable?
A home cook seeks the whole truth.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 November 30 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
November 30, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Raw Cashew Cheese at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 370 x 246Close Zoom Window

Raw Cashew Cheese
Those of us who consume the real thing at every meal in moderation will agree that calling this preparation "cheese" is a bit of a stretch - and I don't mean the mozzarella kind -, yet its texture does evoke that of homemade ricotta, and it is a delight in its own right: a fluffy-smooth and subtly sweet spread, which we enjoyed on fresh baguette, on oatcakes, and in pita sandwiches. And if you want to follow the raw food trail all the way, I'm sure it will do well on dehydrated seed crackers.
 

Washington Post - Kim O'Donnel - Food & Dining Washington Post
Kim O'Donnel - Food & Dining

A Turkey of a Thanksgiving
But this time, something in the kitchen was off. As in the oven. The digital display on the electric oven was blank, and nothing would bring it back to life, no matter how we tried. The guys fiddled with the knobs on the stovetop, thinking they'd be able to magically resuscitate the sick appliance and save Thanksgiving, but the stovetop too was dead. And I was too stunned to even think straight. I've dealt with plenty of kitchen mishaps in my time, but a dying oven with half-roasted turkey ON THANKSGIVING DAY! was a first.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Roasted Sweet Potato & Red Onion at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 530Close Zoom Window

Roasted Sweet Potato & Red Onion
Fact is, I am way too undisciplined to follow any regime that doesn't advocate comfort food. (Whether I am naturally drawn to foods that are good for me or just have an above-average metabolism, I don't know. But I am far from being fat and any doctor's model student when it comes to measuring body fat, cholesterol levels and blood pressure. Do I think I am "practically perfect in every way?" - no way! There's always room for improvement, don't you think?)
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Now is a Very Good Time to Buy Wine
While the wine industry has trailed the general market malaise and the dive has not been as precipitous, things are tough right now in the world of wine. And the more expensive the wine, the tougher things are. It's a sad, sad thing that I even have to think about it, but I must make clear that the article above doesn't constitute investment advice in any way, shape, or form. I'm not a professional, and if you buy wine based on what I say and lose your hard earned savings, then you should just open the damn bottles and drown your sorrows because it won't be my fault.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Gingerbread Cupcakes at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 267 x 400Close Zoom Window

Gingerbread Cupcakes
As much as I love gingerbread, it's a pain to make. After making who knows how many shapes and 2 hours struggling to put it together I lost patience. By the end, I was pretty well ready to bite the head off of little gingerbread baby Jesus out of frustration and call it a day. The whole experience pretty much put me off making gingerbread, which is a shame since I love the taste of it so much. Thankfully, there is an alternative to the pains and rigors of gingerbread making (house or otherwise). Gingerbread cake.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Cooking with Joshua Bell
This week it's a cooking lesson with a virtuoso. Violinist Joshua Bell's creating his first home and he wants to learn to cook. He and Lynne met up at the stove in his New York City kitchen where Tagliatelle with Caramelized Oranges and Almonds was the lesson of the day. The Sterns are in Cleveland where they're eating Wiener Schnitzel and Dobos Torte at Balaton. Sally Schneider, author of The Improvisational Cook, returns with a cold weather cooking technique you will love. Food scientist Harold McGee, author of the seminal On Food and Cooking, explains those ever more confounding scientific contortions coming out of restaurant kitchens these days. And We'll hear from the United States Oyster Shucking Champion.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Heidi Julavits - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Heidi Julavits - Style Section

The Way We Eat: Grain Exchange
Spelt, to my eye, didn't look like farro, and from a stovetop behavioral standpoint, it quickly distinguished itself. Farro cooks in about 45 minutes; we cooked our spelt for four hours, and even then the result was extremely al dente. We threw in multiple sticks of butter, gallons of stock and $13 worth of grated Parmesan, but the spelt remained stoically flavor-impervious. We served it anyway. Contrary to the claims of Hildegard von Bingen, a 12th-century spelt enthusiast, our guests did not find that eating it "makes the spirit of man light and cheerful."
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Quick Mincemeat Recipe at David LebovitzOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Quick Mincemeat Recipe
At Chez Panisse, we used to make mincemeat with suet, and while it was indeed the classic and tasted quite good, it also required ordering a big chunk of kidney fat in advance from the nearby butcher. I used to joke that I didn't like to go in there and get it because, "...that place is a meat market!" (Which no one else in the kitchen thought was funny, but it amused me to no end. I'm glad at least I can amuse myself...) Once back in the kitchen, we'd set about cutting it up and freezing it in blocks, then grinding the fat up in the giant, oversized meat grinder. The semi-solid, flesh-colored strands of fat oozing from the grinder holes was not a pretty site. Call me crazy, but I prefer to melt chocolate.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Perfect Pecan Pie
First, I discovered that lightly toasting the nuts before putting them in the pie improves both their flavor and texture. Then, after having one too many pies come out burnt on top and soupy in the middle I adjusted the heat and discovered that pecan pies are best baked gently. The biggest breakthrough of all, though - the one that takes this pie out of the clouds and catapults it into the stratosphere - happened when I moved to corn-syrup-less Europe and discovered that not only was one of the most delicious sweetening agents ever invented all but unknown in my country, but it makes the best pecan pie this side of Kentucky (if not even better!). The miracle nectar?
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Pumpkin Cupcakes at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 332Close Zoom Window

Pumpkin Cupcakes
So many pumpkin cakes and loaves and muffins are heavy, playing off the dense qualities of pureed squash, and the deep, warm spices we like to eat them with. But these cupcakes - originally envisioned as a two-layer cake I believe my sister is frosting right! now! - are light. They still taste of pumpkin but not aggressively so. And the maple cream cheese frosting, my word, is so heaven sent, you can see I got a little carried away prettying it up.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

I Can't Wait
As a grade-schooler, he used to go to a pizzeria near his parents' house in New Jersey and pepper the owner with questions about dough and mozzarella. When I met him, he lived on the Upper West Side, but he trekked out to the middle of Brooklyn at least once a week to wait patiently in line at DiFara. Last year, he agreed to drive a car from San Antonio to Los Angeles just so he could try the pizza at Mozza, and he took an overnight trip to Phoenix for the sole purpose of eating at Pizzeria Bianco. So when he told me that he wanted to make pizza, it didn't exactly surprise me. It may have scared me a little, but it didn't surprise me.
 

New York Times - Mark Bittman - Dining and Wine New York Times
Mark Bittman - Dining and Wine

So Guests Don't Have to Juggle at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 600 x 387Close Zoom Window

So Guests Don't Have to Juggle
Think about it: Sushi is the vinegared rice that, along with nori seaweed, holds fish or vegetables in the roll form. So if you replace the rice with something sticky that would hold a filling and be easy to slice, you'd be golden. All of these combinations proved delicious and impressive looking. The prosciutto and salmon are perfect for a last-minute get-together, because there's almost nothing to cook (O.K., you have to blanch the asparagus), and the rolling is nearly foolproof. The eggplant takes a bit more work: you have to grill, broil or roast the slices first. Still, it's easier than learning how to make sushi.
 

Alinea at Home - Carol Blymire Alinea at Home
Carol Blymire

Sea Urchin, Vanilla, Chili, Mint
So, I wanted to try and make up for being such a jerk and making him gag for days on end after that stuff, so I offered him the first bite of this gorgeous sea urchin preparation, because I really thought he'd like it. He popped it in his mouth, chewed, bulged out his cheeks and squinted his eyes while somehow simultaneously raising his eyebrows in horror. After the look that could kill, he raced to the cupboard for a glass which he filled with water and drank in about 3.8 seconds, at which point he refilled his glass and drank some more. So, you can imagine, after that, the rest of us were SO STOKED to try this.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Mushroom Casserole Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 475 x 360Close Zoom Window

Mushroom Casserole Recipe
I had one favorite thing to eat when I was a kid. One dish I was loyal to above all else. I would request it when I was recovering from the flu, pneumonia, or strep throat. I would request it weeknights, weekends, and holidays. As I remember it she combined rice, mushrooms (or creamy mushroom soup) and cheese in a casserole dish and baked it until it was creamy, melty, and golden at the edges. Easy enough. I made a healthier, from-scratch remix of this the other night using brown rice, sauteed mushrooms, garlic, and onions - all made creamy with a blend of cottage cheese and a bit of sour cream.
 


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