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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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Nordljus
Keiko Oikawa

At the Special Corner of the Iberian Peninsula at Nordljus
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At the Special Corner of the Iberian Peninsula

The simplicity of cooking and the emphasis on quality of ingredients is reminiscent of Japanese food.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 September 28 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
September 28, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Twelve Hours in Paris at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Twelve Hours in Paris
{2:30pm} I will then find a Vélib' that's more or less in working order (yeah, good luck with that) and ride toward the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, where I'll spend a couple of hours walking, getting lost, finding my way again, sitting on a bench, reading, and people-watching. When I'm done with that, I will visit Véronique Mauclerc's bakery and buy a loaf of organic bread baked in her century-old, woodfire-burning oven.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Crunch Time
Too bad Jack's brother, 6-year-old Sam, does not demonstrate a similar enthusiasm for broccoli florets topped with melting cheddar, known in the Donovans' Fairfax household as cheese trees. In fact, he does not care for any vegetables except carrots, if they're dipped in hummus, and tomatoes, which technically are not even vegetables. "They can be very difficult to please," Donovan said. "If it's not mac 'n' cheese or a bagel, it is a constant fight at mealtimes." Sound familiar?
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Trout & Horseradish Hollandaise at Passio...Open Zoom Window 370 x 493Close Zoom Window

Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Trout & Horseradish Hollandaise
There's difficult times ahead of us... I don't know about you, but I am deeply affected by the current financial turmoil. And I don't even have a mortgage! But it was this weekend that I had to realise that the times where I can have a leisurely weekend breakfast with my husband are probably over for quite some time to come. After the Lehman Brothers' acquisition, I'll be lucky if I can share any meal at all with him. And I hate eating by myself - despite my food addiction, if I can't share these indulging moments with anyone, I'd rather not eat.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Some Thoughts on South African Wine
So not only does every booth have a shelf full of fresh, clean (and properly shaped, I might add) glassware, there's a whole crew of people at the show that makes sure its always stocked. Instead of endlessly rinsing your glass, which invariably gets caked with wine residue, if you wanted to, you could literally get a fresh glass at each station. While not the most environmentally friendly (I can only imagine how much dishwasher detergent they must use at this pace) clean glasses whenever you wanted was a huge luxury. Did I mention that every booth had at least 2 spittoons?
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Garlic Chicken with White Wine Sauce at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 288 x 422Close Zoom Window

Garlic Chicken with White Wine Sauce
The catch is the garlic. We used 40 unpeeled cloves. Lest the sheer volume of garlic scare you off of this recipe, let me reassure you that the browning and braising mellows out the garlic significantly, so it ends up tasting a lot like roasted garlic. Leaving the peels on the garlic is traditional in Mexican cooking, I imagine it may be in Spanish cooking as well? Not sure. But the peels do have flavor, much like the shells of shrimp. You don't eat them, but when the dish is done, the garlic just slips out of them.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

The House of Mondavi
This week we talk to journalist Julia Flynn Siler author of The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty. Jane and Michael Stern are at Kumback Lunch in Perry, OK. David Rosengarten looks at the origins of ramen noodles. And for an interpretation of an epicurean's take on happiness we turn to philosopher and historian Jennifer Michael Hecht, author of The Happiness Myth: Why What We Think is Right is Wrong.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Recipe Redux: 1976 Challah
The recipe, which Claiborne wrote out in great detail, creates a soft, velvety dough - and so much of it that it recalls the "I Love Lucy" episode in which Lucy bakes a loaf of bread that shoots right out of the oven and pins her against the kitchen cabinets. But what a beautiful loaf it makes! Schecht's shaping technique, which sounds nightmarishly finicky - you must braid eight strands of dough - is easy once you get going and makes for an intricately woven, cinnamon-scented loaf the size of a skateboard. (Plenty to eat fresh, and plenty for French toast later.)
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Tiramisu
I saw these great little glass candle holders and thought they'd be perfect for servings of something...like, say...individual portions of Tiramisu. Which are great for those of you, if you're anything like me, who will forage around their apartment all all hours, desperately searching for something to eat. I am like an aspirateur for food and will eat anything, but have a strong preference lately for this chocolate spread I bought in Nice with bits of caramelized pears in it, crunchy organic peanut butter, and Chex party mix. (Oh great, another thing I need to add to my ever-expanding shopping list for my trip to the states next week...)
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

The Transatlantic Tomato Chase at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 450Close Zoom Window

The Transatlantic Tomato Chase
How the Dutch finagled the exclusive contract for supplying northern Europe with tomatoes I may never know, but unfortunately they did; I'll go so far as to say you'd be hard-pressed to find a tomato north of Brussels that didn't come from their massive greenhouses, where they grow them year-round and ship them off to even grayer, chillier places where people are apparently ready to buy anything that brings a bit of color to their sandwiches. Because that's the thing - they look fine, all the picture-perfect deep red beefsteaks, plump little cherries and heavy, smooth-skinned 'on the vine' clusters, but all it takes is one bite to realize how no amount of plastic sheeting can make up for the one thing you need to grow a really good tomato: sun, and plenty of it.
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Best Challah (Egg Bread) at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 332Close Zoom Window

Best Challah (Egg Bread)
Like, it would be bad enough to, say, eat ham and cheese on matzo on Passover (or, I suspect, ever and boy, do I have a great story about that but first let me see if I can get my mother to pay me not to share it) but it would be doubly more awful to do it in front of a person outside your faith. You would, in fact, bring shame upon your entire people, mostly because when given the choice between the most or least dramatic interpretation of an event, I think can safely say that my people will generally opt for the former.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Hello Again, Finally.
We picked up our spoons and dug in. The peaches were warm and tender, having been cooked over apple wood until their juices went thick and sticky. They were lovely, perfectly late-summer, but in truth, the ice cream was even better. Sitting atop the fruit, it was melting quickly, forming a milky puddle at the bottom of the bowl, so we spooned it up like soup. Then we scraped the bowl. Even soft and half-melted, the ice cream was superlative: silky and delicate and surreally light, and faintly floral from the honey. You just scald some milk, let it cool, stir in honey and salt and cream, and freeze it in an ice cream machine. Ba daa! The end.
 

The Minimalist - Mark Bittman - New York Times The Minimalist
Mark Bittman - New York Times

Killing Hunger the Spanish Way at The MinimalistOpen Zoom Window 600 x 343Close Zoom Window

Killing Hunger the Spanish Way
Matambre is a contraction of the Spanish words for "kill" and "hunger" - it's the hunger killer. It's beef stuffed with vegetables, herbs, hard-cooked egg and seasonings, so you can understand how it got its name. It is often served as a kind of cold cut in Argentina, where it was created, but it can also be served hot. This is not a typical Minimalist dish, because there's some real work involved, and even a little bit of technique. If you want to make something more authentic, get those olives out of there and use the egg, sliced. I have to admit, it's pretty.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Baby Lamb: Five Cuts Served with Provençal Vegetables, Braised Cipollini Onions, and Thyme Oil (Part 2)
So, would I ever do this dish again? Hell yes. But probably not on my own, because I honestly think it's just too much for one person to do (in a short period of time, to ensure the meat stays fresh), unless they've got the experience, tools, and space to do it. That said, if I were ever thrown into a situation where I was forced to break down and cook a whole baby lamb all by myself with a good saw, a good knife, but no help from no one, no how? Let's just say that now, having done this, there's far less risk of failure... or at least I could fail with dignity.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Maple Huckleberry Coffee Cake Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Maple Huckleberry Coffee Cake Recipe
They were deep violet in color and sweet, tart, and floral in flavor. I ate a big handful and decided to bake the rest into a maple-accented, crumble-crowned coffee cake - the finale of a lunch I was making for my sis. Maple is a nice match for many berries and I made it my sweetener of choice for this cake. In the back of my mind, I was aiming for a rustic cake that used no white sugar and no white flour. It's a stunner of a cake - the huckleberries burst and bleed into the crumb of the cake in quite a dramatic fashion. The crumble crust plays off the tenderness of the cake nicely, so be sure to get a bit of it in every bite.
 


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