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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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August 2008
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New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Other Extreme: Low-Alcohol Beers at New York Times
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The Other Extreme: Low-Alcohol Beers

A small but growing number of brewers, beer experts and importers are turning toward well-made low-alcohol beers.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 August 31 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
August 31, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Chiffon Cake at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Chiffon Cake
In Chinese bakeries, however, chiffon cake appears under the much more appealing guise of a paper-wrapped cake - a single-serving confection baked in a tall metal tumbler, lined with a thin sheet of paper. Naturally, this allows the lady behind the counter to unmold the cakes easily and two at a time, in symmetric flips of the wrists. But, more to the point, you get to peel the paper off the body of the cake as you eat - one of the more thrilling of earthly sensations, akin to the removal of the plastic sheet that protects the screen of a new cell phone.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

A Little Jiggle From Down South
If you announced to a Northerner and a Southerner that your salad had congealed, one would look at you with pity, and the other would know that dinner was ready. Southerners realize that some might find jelled foods outdated, but they don't care one whit about what anyone else thinks of their customs. And besides, are they not with, or in fact way ahead of, the curve? A certain breed of home cooks has employed this technique for a long time. Like the people who prepare them, jelled dishes are kinetic, hold hidden charms and do not suffer from being just a wee bit flashy.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Pasta Salad with Ham, Cheese and Apples at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 246Close Zoom Window

Pasta Salad with Ham, Cheese and Apples
At the danger of sounding repetitive, we Austrians don't tend to do picnics all that often. You might think this is due to the weather, but if you thought Austria was cold, think again! In winter, maybe (but not even nearly enough to give us the length of skiing season we used to have as little kids), but the summers are often swelteringly hot. I don't quite know what the reason is, but the only "picnics" I remember are bread rolls stuffed with cold meats, cheese and cornichons or lake-side lunches out of a cool box, most likely consisting of Wurstsalat, assorted breads and water melon.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Church Attendance Down?
Try Installing a Wine Bar.

The world would be a better place if we all sat down and had a glass of wine with each other more often, and I can think of a lot worse places to do it than some of England's beautiful cathedrals. In fact, this could be a whole new frontier for converting England's beer drinkers into faithful followers of the grape. France, with its dismally dropping population of younger wine drinkers would be wise to consider such a move as well. Even the Catholic church could find an angle in here, and the the process they could significantly increase the quality of that communion wine.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Chicken Enchiladas Verdes at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 460 x 300Close Zoom Window

Chicken Enchiladas Verdes
Have you ever cooked with tomatillos? They look like little lanterns, with their green papery husks. Sometimes people mistake them for green tomatoes (doesn't help that their Spanish name is "tomate verde"); they are related to tomatoes (same family, different genus), but the taste is quite different. They are used to make the distinctive Mexican salsa verde or green salsa. In this chicken enchiladas recipe, the sauce is made with boiled tomatillos (you could also roast them), serrano chile peppers, and sour cream.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Billionaire's Vinegar
This week we've a modern wine mystery with Benjamin Wallace author of The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine. Jane and Michael Stern are noshing donuts at Round Rock Donuts in Round Rock, TX, Sally Schneider author of The Improvisational Cook introduces us to the allure of Orange Flower Water, and David Rosengarten, the man behind the opinionated Rosengarten Report talks about how gazpacho is made on its home turf of Spain.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Other Extreme: Low-Alcohol Beers
While many craft brewers are trying to quench the nation's growing thirst for extreme beers pumped with alcohol, Mr. Taylor is one of a small but growing number of brewers, beer experts and importers who are applying the brakes and turning toward well-made low-alcohol beers. "If I just want one beer, that high octane is stellar. If I want to drink several pints, I want something where I can still have a conversation." ...session beers: well-made low-alcohol brews meant for long nights at the bar.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

White Chocolate Rice Krispie Treats with Candied Peanuts at David LebovitzOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

White Chocolate Rice Krispie Treats
with Candied Peanuts

But Parisians love...and I mean love...Rice Krispie Treats. I've never met one who didn't look at me, and say, "C'est fantastique!" when chomping into one. The trick to updating Rice Krispie Treats, or any classic, is to do as little to it as possible. I don't want smoked salmon macarons nor do I want white chocolate salsa-which I actually saw on a restaurant menu once. Yuck! But white chocolate does have an affinity for marshmallows, as do crackly candied peanuts. Now I just need to figure out how to explain who Snap, Crackle and Pop are. And in French, no less.
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

Slow Food Nation: Re-Localizing Food
Barber stressed that a blend of old world wisdom and newfangled technology could be combined to great result. He then told of a visit to a goose farm in France where birds naturally gorge themselves instead of being forced, and even wild birds choose the farm, flying in from all over, because of the high quality living conditions. Electrified fences keep animals from entering the property but not from leaving. Though the animals are free to leave, it sounds as if they never choose to.
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Cold-brewed Iced Coffee at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 332Close Zoom Window

Cold-brewed Iced Coffee
I started with the iced coffee blend from Joe's (about 1/3 Sumatra, 2/3 Vienna roast), coarsely ground, mixed it with water, let it sit at room temperature for about 12 hours, strained it, poured it over ice cubes, added water and cream and proceeded to hop and skip around the apartment. And not just from the caffeine. Where has this been my whole life? If you are an iced coffee drinker, the difference between cold-brewing it and just letting hot coffee cool off is remarkable. The coffee is less bitter, harbors no acidity and all of those background flavors–chocolate, a dark caramelization and even slight smokiness–come through.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

A Clear Sign
Clearly, I have a problem. If my count is correct, this is the sixth, SIXTH, banana bread and/or cake recipe that I have written about here. Is there some sort of treatment facility for this? A Betty Ford Center for Banana Bread Dependency? I try to stop myself, but I am weak. So weak. Especially when there is honey involved, and when there are crumbly bits of cinnamon sugar on top, and when some of those crumbly bits fall onto the plate and you can press them with the tip of your index finger so that they collect in a sweet, sticky clump, which you can then lift to your mouth and gently, nibblingly, consume. I am so weak about things like that.
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Fire and Rice at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 190 x 152Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: Fire and Rice
Patience: the whole game here is setup, what French-trained cooks call mise-en-place. You don't want to be muddling about gathering ingredients once your fire is hot. You want to make everything such that you can slide your rice-filled pan on top of the fiery grill, add the stock and the proteins, cover the whole and walk away for a half-hour with your heart in your throat, wondering whether you'll serve salad or pizza should the whole endeavor fail. (Nerve: it won't.)
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Q&A with Carol, Part Three
Q. Going on the last-meal question which band would you have play? A. I'd put together an all-star supergroup featuring... and I'd make them write a song about me, perform and record it that night (while also shooting an awesome "Do They Know It's Christmas"/"Live Aid"-type video) then sell millions of copies to benefit a hunger relief organization. And, I'd also have it in Sebastian Bach's contract that he had to make out with me.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Brown Sugar Sandwich Cookies Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Brown Sugar Sandwich Cookies Recipe
There are a couple tricks to making these cookies extra good. The first is simple - roll the dough out very, very thin. Not parchment thin, but certainly Saltine cracker thin. The resulting cookies will be crisp, elegant, and lovely to look at. You want just a bit of chocolate sandwiched between just a bit of cookie. Too much cookie and the ratio gets thrown off. The second important thing to be (particularly) mindful of is the baking time. You want the cookies to bake until they are beautifully golden, particularly on the bottom edges where the cookies meet the baking sheet. Don't turn your back, cookies this thin will go from blond to burned in a heartbeat.
 


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