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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Carne Knowledge at New York Times Magazine
Open Zoom Window 190 x 207Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: Carne Knowledge

To make carne asada, the California treat, all you need is a hot grill and some flap meat.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 July 27 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
July 27, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

The Dough Whisk at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

The Dough Whisk
I can delude myself all I want, but the fact remains that, over the past three months, I have acquired a little more than zero utensils. I will readily provide a set of indisputable reasons for buying each and every one of them, but still: a flour sifter, a frosting spatula, a set of madeleine molds (one that fits in my small oven), a bulb baster, a new piping bag with metal tips, a sesame mill, and now this. This, for those of you who are not wholly acquainted with the perfect little baker's paraphernalia, this is a dough whisk, designed to succeed where the wire whisk and the wooden spoon fail.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Takeout Rice: So Nice to Use It Twice
My longtime strategy has been an off-the-cuff version of traditional fried rice, throwing those little white grains into my nonstick saute pan along with leftover meat and maybe some veggies, then tossing it around until things seemed done, more or less. But that started to feel too uninspired to do very often. So I decided to raise my fried-rice game. More than anything, I needed a good recipe or two, based on a solid technique and flavor base yet easily adaptable to the ever-changing contents of my fridge's crisper, which should probably be renamed the "rotter." As it turns out, that required an equipment upgrade.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Sourdough Bread with Carrots, Linseeds & Pumpkin Seeds at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Sourdough Bread with Carrots, Linseeds & Pumpkin Seeds
I have found a handful that are our favourites and that fit in well with our daily routines (the various rises can span over a day and then there's a more intensive phase with can involve hourly folding of the dough - not ideal if you've got to chauffeur three kids around all day or a workplace to go to) - so my baking circles around household staples rather than new creations every other day. Secondly, I am really struggling with the photography part - you want to show it off inside and out and there's only so many ways you can stack a few slices of bread...
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Messages in a Bottle: Ode to the Blended Wine
Growing up in America cripples us wine lovers from the very start. Sure, we are born into the land of boundless opportunity, where the dreams and hard work of a vineyard worker can result in the ownership of a winery twenty years later. But unless our parents provide us with a very particular upbringing, we grow up thinking that wine isn't wine unless it has the name of the grape on the front of the label. America and its wine lovers have a varietal bias.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Shrimp Ceviche at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 460 x 306Close Zoom Window

Shrimp Ceviche
Why pre-cook the shrimp? While the acidic marinade "cooks" the proteins, it doesn't kill the bacteria. Whereas this isn't as much of an issue with raw fish (think sushi, sashimi), it is with shellfish like shrimp and scallops which can go bad much more easily. Unless you are getting your shrimp straight off the boat, for food safety reasons it's best to lightly pre-cook the shrimp.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

The Fruit Hunter
This week's guest claims that without fruits we'd still be swinging from trees eating bugs. Fruit-obsessed journalist Adam Leith Gollner joins us for a look at the fruit leggers and their stories as told in his book The Fruit Hunters: The Story of Nature, Adventure, Commerce and Obsession. The Sterns experience a religious moment at the church of heavenly barbecue - Louie Mueller's in Taylor, Texas. Wine maverick Joshua Wesson talks cool wines for steamy days, and food scientist Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, explains what's really going on with those color-enhanced steaks in the meat case.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Carne Knowledge
Meaning, nonhighfalutin meat is essential. The vast majority of its purveyors use flap meat, a cut from the loin of the beef. I was steered away from the cut by my butcher - who doesn't even sell flap meat and pressed me into purchasing skirt steak - but later managed to acquire it at the grocery store near my house. (Mexican butcher shops carry it as well.) I cooked up both meats side by side, and I am here to report that while a grilled skirt steak is perfectly enjoyable, it does not, not, not make for proper carne asada. Any butcher who tries to tell you otherwise should be ignored and, if you're feeling ungenerous, openly mocked.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Ah, Abruzzo at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 451Close Zoom Window

Ah, Abruzzo
...a couple of years ago Manuela decided to start offering up the cooperative's sheep for 'virtual adoption', sending adoptive parents all the wool, pecorino and ricotta their ovine offspring produces in a year. It was a media sensation; in her thick file of articles are descriptions of her project in the New York Times, Washington Post and just about every major European newspaper. It's no wonder people are interested; at $190, adoption is not only a steal, but a great opportunity to help preserve a dying way of life.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Upside Down Cake
I had big plans for this cake. I bought these gorgeous apricots, packed them up to take out to the country last weekend to make a cake. I planned to pick some rose geranium leaves to flavor the batter, and I was going to bake it and serve it proudly forth. Except someone decided to use my perfectly-ripe apricots to make some jam, and the Hooters-worthy neighbor who promised me rose geranium leaves, actually brought me regular geranium leaves, which I was certain would kill us all if we ate them. So I had to make some last-minute adjustments.
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Chocolate Hazelnut Biscotti at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Chocolate Hazelnut Biscotti
One of these days I'll get into all of these changes – the way that I stomp on the grave of business casual attire; the fact that, yes, I still get up early each day and shower and put on mascara; oh, and more relevantly to this site, the breakfasts and lunches I put together (that is, once I get past the yogurt and PB&J sandwich phase, though no promises that will be be happening any time soon) – but for now, suffice it to say that I am still in the Adjustment Phase... Hence the 12:30 p.m. "morning coffee."
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

The Important Parts
So we did. We threw our bags in the trunk and positioned a cooler of snacks on the back seat, and we drove. We ate tacos in the Mission and meringues at Tartine, Indian food in the East Bay and tomatoes on my aunt's back deck. We also, as a splurge, had dinner one night at Zuni Café. I don't remember many details of the meal, unfortunately, because I was very busy talking with my aunt during most of it - we two are talkers - and I was also quite intent on staring at the man across the table from me, this man who had amazing curls and who made my chest feel funny and tight and who, only three months before, I had not known existed. But I do remember one thing: the apricot tart. I always remember the important parts.
 

The Minimalist - Mark Bittman - New York Times The Minimalist
Mark Bittman - New York Times

Summer Cheesecake, Without the Stove at The MinimalistOpen Zoom Window 600 x 314Close Zoom Window

Summer Cheesecake, Without the Stove
Mind you, it doesn't develop the firmness of classic cheesecake, which usually contains eggs or cornstarch, or both, and whose density may approach that of lead. Instead, it's quite a delicate thing. But it becomes sturdy enough to cut (carefully), and sit up straight on a plate. And it doesn't require a springform pan, several bowls, an oven or a water bath, which I despise about as much as anything in all of cooking.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Pacific Moi with Fresh Soybeans, Scallion and Radish Salad, and Soy-Temple Orange Glaze
So, how did I get this rare little fishy in my kitchen? Back in February, when I was buying monkfish (ugh, THAT was a disaster of a dish), I told my fishmonger, Scott, that I needed to get my hands on some fresh moi - not Cryovac™ed and frozen, but fresh outta the water. He laughed and laughed and "there-there'd" me until I snapped his ass back into reality and said, "No. Dude. I really do need some moi. Can ya help me out?" I think right after that he said something like "Fat chance, you crack monkey" and then suggested I book us two tickets to Hawaii to go pick some up - and believe me, I was tempted.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

My Special Zucchini Bread Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

My Special Zucchini Bread Recipe
Sometimes you just know. The thick and creamy batter was flecked with hundreds of green-lined strands of shredded zucchini nestled alongside the occasional flare of yellow lemon zest. The poppy seeds quickly spread themselves into an impossible network of connect-the dots, and at the same time, one of my favorite curry powders was sending notes of coriander, cumin, and clove up from the mixing bowl to tease my nose. There are many zucchini bread recipes out there, plenty of them tried and true, but this time around I wanted to bring my own take to this seasonal classic.
 


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