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Eat, Memory: Family Meal

The birthday lunch that never grew up, until...

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 June 22 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
June 22, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Banana Pecan Cake with Maple Glaze at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Banana Pecan Cake with Maple Glaze
Now, I know I just stated that I wanted to feel I could follow a cookbook's directions with my eyes closed, but before you dismiss me as an illogical person, let me explain: I like to bake/cook things my own way, but in order to tweak a recipe, I need it to be rock-solid, otherwise it might not hold up to the tweaking. But this one did, and brilliantly so. The crumb was moist and fluffy, the flavors multi-dimensional, and the overall sweetness was moderate, which left ample room for the maple glaze to step in and do its thing.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

I Can't Believe I Bought the Whole Thing
Buying a whole animal has its logistical challenges. But for a growing number of urbanites, the challenges are outweighed by concerns about drugs and diseases in meat, factory farm practices and rising food prices. The number of consumers buying whole or half-lambs, pigs and steers straight from the farm isn't catalogued nationally, but buying in large quantities is on the rise,... Once customers get a taste for buying whole animals, the total poundage rises quickly. A whole pig, the darling of food lovers, weighs in at about 130 pounds of meat. A whole steer translates to anywhere from 400 to 600 pounds of beef.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Mojito Cheesecakes at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Mojito Cheesecakes
Of course, I am a bit of a light-weight and drink them very weak, but that doesn't distract from the flavour too much and the pleasure lasts for longer. In fact, this incarnation of mojitos in cheesecake format can do entirely without the alcohol... I found them in an issue of delicious magazine and there's a fabulous line-up of summer recipes by Tom Aikens - sticky pork ribs, tuna teriyaki burgers and for dessert: mojito cheesecake. What a wonderful grown-up menu for a garden party!
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Terroir vs. Pleasure in Wine
There's no easy way to answer such a question, though I find it perhaps easier than most to step back from the romanticism of terroir and ask the question: what do these winemakers want to do with their wine? If they only aspire to sell it to a local market of people who don't think it's red wine unless it tastes like peeled willow bark, then there's no need for a change. If they want to sell their reds on the global market, however, and that market demands wine without burnt rubber, then perhaps the terroir, or at least the regional style, needs a bit of an overhaul.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Chicken Salad with Tarragon at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 360 x 281Close Zoom Window

Chicken Salad with Tarragon
Inspiration for good food can be found anywhere, even Starbucks, where I had a delicious chicken salad sandwich recently. The key ingredients other than chicken? Cranberries and tarragon. French tarragon is a distinctive herb, with a slight anise or licorice aroma. We don't use it that often; I grew some last year and don't think we used it more than once or twice the whole season. But it does pair well with chicken. The dried cranberries add some sweetness to the chicken salad, and the lemon juice just enough acidity to brighten all the flavors.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Reflections of a Wine Merchant
This week it's the making of a wine merchant with Neal Rosenthal, one of the wine world's most respected importers. We'll hear the story of how he learned his craft and much more. His book is Reflections of a Wine Merchant. It's world class chili with the Sterns at Joe Roger's Chili Parlor in Springfield, Illinois. We're eating on the cheap abroad with Anya Von Bremzen. Dan Buettner, author of The Blue Zones, has secrets for flourishing well into our tenth decade, and we'll hear about a new kind of eatery in Denver named So All May Eat.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Eat, Memory: Family Meal
And all of this occurred in the presence of a miracle. From the moment our mother was brought into the room, her eyes remained open in unmistakable wonder and joy, as she looked from one of us to the other in astonishment and gratitude, galvanized, awakened, transfixed, radiantly fulfilled by the sight of her daughter. The occasion brought her back from a kind of somnolence that had lasted for months, as if encountering bright daylight after an age of darkness. Her eyes remained opened even after Mary left, and that night she barely slept.
 

Eric Asimov - New York Times - Dining and Wine Eric Asimov - New York Times
Dining and Wine

Scrutinizing a Red, Grape by Grape
You do remember the scandal, right? Tuscan authorities accused well-known producers of violating laws that let them use the prestigious “Brunello di Montalcino” appellation, mainly by using unapproved grapes. More than a million bottles of wine were impounded. Since then, well, let's just say that we may see a conclusion in our lifetimes. As long as there have been rules, winemakers have broken them. The brunello scandal has just lasted longer than most. But then, brunello has always been a little different.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Ah, Abruzzo at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 451Close Zoom Window

Ah, Abruzzo
...a couple of years ago Manuela decided to start offering up the cooperative's sheep for 'virtual adoption', sending adoptive parents all the wool, pecorino and ricotta their ovine offspring produces in a year. It was a media sensation; in her thick file of articles are descriptions of her project in the New York Times, Washington Post and just about every major European newspaper. It's no wonder people are interested; at $190, adoption is not only a steal, but a great opportunity to help preserve a dying way of life.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Panisses
Panisses are made from chickpea flour and shaped into hockey puck-sized disks. Once firm, their texture is similar to cooled polenta, and they're cut into elongated bars and fried in very hot olive oil until crisp on the outside. Lots of freshly-cracked pepper gets showered over them along with plenty of coarse sea salt. They're the perfect late-afternoon snack, along with an aperitif, before dinner...
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Pistachio Petit-four Cake at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Pistachio Petit-four Cake
So I volunteered myself, and I knew exactly what I wanted to make. I had seen this utterly insane and therefore completely and totally awesome cake on Leite's a couple months ago. It involved all of the best things on earth: a pistachio layer cake, thin ribbons of jam, sheets of marzipan and bitter-chocolate ganache filling and coating. It had marzipan flowers on top, with a trail of pistachios simulating leaves. It was the prettiest things I have ever seen.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

I Baked You a Cake
To me, carrot cakes taste like picnics on red checked blankets and parties by the pool, and because I can't give you a picnic or a party, I thought this was a good alternative. There are pecans in the cake part, and it was supposed to have raisins too, but I left them out, because I worried that you wouldn't like them. It's moist and lightly spiced, and the frosting is not too sweet, and it's three layers tall, which means that there's plenty for everyone.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

A Garlic Festival Without a Single Clove at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 285Close Zoom Window

A Garlic Festival Without a Single Clove
"I'd rather have an ounce of garlic than a pound of truffles," my father often said, setting the tone for garlic worship in our family. When I was growing up, no meal was complete without several of the odoriferous cloves: from the omelets at breakfast to the garlic butter popcorn as a snack before bedtime. And if my dad never did get around to making garlic ice cream, it was only because he was perfecting his garlic-laced gazpacho sorbet. Given this history, it was no surprise that the first time I came upon a cascading pile of vivid green, curling garlic scapes at the farmers' market, I had to buy some, even though I had no idea of what do with them.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

"Yabba Dabba Do" - Roasted Rib Steak with Golden Chanterelles, Pommes Anna, and Bordelaise Sauce
After 20 minutes, the liquid had reduced to a sauce-like consistency, so I strained it into a smaller saucepan. It was during this 20-minute simmer that I fell madly in love with the deliciousness we call Bordelaise. Veal stock, wine, aromatics... oh, how you tempt me. Mom... Dad... meet your new future son-in-law, Bordelaise Sauce: Of all the sauces I've ever made in my entire life, this is by far my greatest acheivement. I mean, LOOK AT IT! Have you ever seen anything so lovely? I know I go on and on about wanting to take a bath in certain foods, but this was above and beyond.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Vegetarian Tortilla Soup Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Vegetarian Tortilla Soup Recipe
This is my take on tortilla soup - a full-bodied, spicy vegetarian broth envelops a nest of baked tortilla matchsticks. Tiny roasted tomatoes along with a bit of goat cheese lend tang and texture, and flecks of sun-dried tomatoes bring depth and richness to each bowl. Many tortilla soup recipes call for egregious amounts of shredded cheese, but I've found that a bit crumbled goat cheese lends just the right amount of creaminess, without throwing everything out of whack nutritionally.
 


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