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 Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier
  
Petites Meringues
At the risk of sounding completely irrational, I must note that I've never been much of a meringue fan. When my sister and I were young girls and we dropped by the bakery to buy ourselves a goûter (an afternoon snack), she sometimes chose one of those big, pale pink, swirly meringues; I could never understand what was so appealing about a large, dry lump of sugar styrofoam that left dandruff down the front of your shirt. (Me, I was partial to the CD-sized, chocolate-coated sablés.)
Washington Post
Food & Dining
For Meat-Eating Authors, A More Tender Approach
For four days, the Canadian journalist had worked carving the cheeks out of 20-pound hog heads on an undercover assignment at a pork processing plant in Manitoba. Everything about the experience revolted Bourette: the way the animals were treated, the way the workers were treated, the unavoidable fact that animals died to provide carnivores like her with sustenance... She had lasted five weeks, one day and 13 hours. Pained by her failure, Bourette decided to come to terms with her carnivorous ways.
Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner
Mojito Cheesecakes
Of course, I am a bit of a light-weight and drink them very weak, but that doesn't distract from the flavour too much and the pleasure lasts for longer. In fact, this incarnation of mojitos in cheesecake format can do entirely without the alcohol... I found them in an issue of delicious magazine and there's a fabulous line-up of summer recipes by Tom Aikens - sticky pork ribs, tuna teriyaki burgers and for dessert: mojito cheesecake. What a wonderful grown-up menu for a garden party!
Vinography
Alder Yarrow
Yeast: Part of Wine's Terroir
or Its Mortal Enemy?
It comes as no surprise to me that the group couldn't achieve consensus around a concept that remains, as far as I am concerned, a broken metaphor (vinegar is natural, wine requires technological intervention). One particular sticking point arose out of a discussion surrounding the use of commercial yeasts. Many proponents of Natural Winemaking, including those that practice Biodynamic winemaking eschew commercial yeasts in favor of the yeasts that are found on and around the grapes, citing their role in the concept of terroir. Some do not.
Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer
Jamaican Jerk Burgers
Try these hamburger patties, seasoned with a homemade Jamaican jerk spice mixture of Scotch bonnet peppers, allspice, thyme, cinnamon, nutmeg, green onions, and garlic. Scotch bonnets, or their habanero cousins, are insanely hot, so you don't really need much, half a 1 1/2-inch long pepper, seeds removed. Some people substitute jalapenos, but the flavor really is different, so I would stick to Scotch bonnets or habaneros if you can get them. Cool off the chili heat with a citrus, mayo-based coleslaw. The oil in the mayo helps to absorb the spicy chili, to take the edge of the heat.
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Splendid Table
American Public Media
660 Curries
We learn how to build a curry with award-winning teacher Raghavan Iyer, author of 660 Curries. Jane and Michael Stern report on pecan pie worth the trip at Texas Pie Company in Kyle, Texas. Joshua Wesson has wines for the picnic hamper; Russ Parsons, author of How to Pick a Peach, talks artichokes; and Julia Moskin of The New York Times looks at the misunderstandings behind MSG.
Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue
In This Issue
New York Times Magazine
Style Section
The Way We Eat: Garlic Defanged
Garlic, the most obnoxious member of the allium family, starts out pleasantly enough but quickly turns bullying and bellicose, dominating every culinary interaction. Its persistent oils cling to fingers, cutting boards and knives, leaving behind its ghostly, acrid perfume. At the restaurant we treat garlic much like radioactive waste. We use latex gloves to handle it and a combination of bleach and vigorous scrubbing to remove any residual taint. Should I ever find myself on a psychiatrist's couch disgorging my deepest fears, they won't involve alien abductions or monsters lurking in closets; it will be oranges that taste like garlic.
Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal
Balkan Beauty
Croatia did, however, have a few surprises in store. The first clue that things might not be exactly what we were expecting was at the airport, where everything was, get ready for it - clean, modern, and efficient. Where were the chain-smoking immigration officers and the broken baggage carousels? Why did every public toilet, telephone booth and ATM looked like it has been installed last week? Why was the public transportation so incredibly punctual? This wasn't the Mediterranean I knew, particularly once we left the airport and realized it wasn't just a facade to lure recently-arrived tourists into a false sense of security. But we only digested this shock until the next one came, namely that despite the fact that neither did Manuel understand any spoken Croatian nor did they understand his Bulgarian, none of it mattered because everyone spoke English. And by everyone I mean everyone. Had we somehow taken a wrong turn and ended up in Sweden?
David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz
Rigoletto Noir
It was a lot to get through, let me tell you. I normally avoid any hot chocolate that's offered in those kinds of situations, because I find that's the tummy-buster, the stuff that puts you over the edge. And when faced with a plate of such fine chocolates, I want to enjoy and savor every chocolate-dipped bite. A warm cup of silky-rich chocolat chaud alongside? That's just dorer le lys. (Gilding the lily.)
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Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten
Cherry Cornmeal Upside-down Cake
I decided that since I didn't have the right size oven-proof skillet and lacked a 10-inch cake pan that wasn't an always-leaky springform, I would use this as my perfect excuse to finally use my Maryann cake pan. But here's the thing with Ms. Mary, the fruit/frosting/curd/cream that you put on top? Yeah, it's supposed to go on top of a baked, not unbaked cake. I realized this after I'd already dumped the cherries in, and decided to just run with it. I mean, once you've already grated brown sugar, I think it's safe to say that you're probably not going to get hung up on a cake pan that pushes all of the out-of-season cherries into an unattractive channel.
Orangette
Molly Wizenberg
Entirely Unmannerly
We're talking about Beard here, people, and the man did not skimp. For two large onions, he calls for two(!) sticks(!) - that's eight ounces, or HALF A POUND - of butter. Heaven help us all. Ben confided, however, that he had made the sauce with half that amount, and that it had turned out beautifully - and still very buttery. So I took his advice and used only one stick. It coated the onions amply, enough that they could cook slowly and sweetly without the least bit of scorching, and when they were golden and melty, so soft that they slumped into lazy heaps, I stirred in a good splash of Madeira, which simmered with their juices and made a sort of chunky, rustic sauce.
New York Times
Dining and Wine
One Country's Table Scraps,
Another Country's Meal
You'd never know it if you saw what was ending up in your landfill. As it turns out, Americans waste an astounding amount of food - an estimated 27 percent of the food available for consumption, according to a government study - and it happens at the supermarket, in restaurants and cafeterias and in your very own kitchen. It works out to about a pound of food every day for every American.
French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire
French Laundry at Home Extra:
"How To Cook Tripe"
I've seen people scurry around corners and duck into offices when they see him coming, because it's just so offensive. My respect for this Senator grew by leaps and bounds when I saw him exit this particular event, only to be greeted by the holy- crap- is- that- an- open- sewer- oh- my- bad- it's- your- breath lobbyist. The Senator's well-honed political veneer cracked before my very eyes as he literally recoiled from this man's breath, his eyes blinking furiously as he said, "Whoa" not quite as under-his-breath as I think he'd intended.
101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson
In a Hurry Green Curry
Note to self: a bowl of curry is perfect this time of year. A fact that annually slips my mind. If I'm not careful March, April and May can slip right by without a single pot making an appearance at my table. Not this year. Today we enjoyed a bowl bright with peas, asparagus, and tofu swimming in a fragrant, not-overly-rich green chile broth. I humbly suggest that the key to a good springtime curry is to keep things on the light side. And by light I suppose I mean leaning (just a shade) toward the brothy end of the spectrum. I love this kind of food - a seasonal, on-the-fly, one-pot meal that leaves you invigorated and not bogged down.
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