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The Way We Eat: Greek Revival at New York Times Magazine
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The Way We Eat: Greek Revival

In the culture wars, one yogurt dominates...

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 April 13 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
April 13, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Amsterdam Highlights at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 370 x 246Close Zoom Window

Amsterdam Highlights
The various types of ham, cheese, and crudités in the refrigerated case bode well, so we sat down and ordered these opulent open-face sandwiches: a pistolet (Belgian-style white roll) with warm ham, Brie, and mustard sauce for Maxence, and for me, two slices of whole wheat bread groaning under a mound of huttenkaas (cottage cheese, which makes such perfect linguistic sense I'm tickled pink).
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Million-Dollar Challenge
He's confident he can win. This despite the fact that few men have even come close. Women have always outnumbered men at the finals. In 1998, 14 men competed, the highest number in the contest to date. The only male grand prize winner was Kurt Wait, a single father from California who triumphed in 1996 with his Macadamia Fudge Torte. While restaurant kitchens have long been dominated by men, the home kitchen is still a woman's world, although the balance continues to shift. According to a study last year, men are preparing 18 percent of dinners at home, up from 14 percent in 2003.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Home-cured Gravadlax at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Home-cured Gravadlax
Come Saturday, though, it's time to pull out all the stops: cooked eggs in all shapes and sizes (e.g. my speciality of eggs florendict, oeufs cocotte, huevos a a mexicana, etc), freshly baked bread, pastrami or BLT bagels and/or some salmon. And again, we don't settle for second best: the most glorious salmon ever is smoked at my local fishmongers and he is a super hero for shaving off the thinnest slices... no chewy bits that stick between your teeth, just the tenderest, melt-in-the-mouth fish you could ever imagine. Recently, he's taken to also making gravadlax - but I thought, hang on, I might not be able to build a smoker in my house, but I can surely cure my own salmon? And so I did.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Lest You Forget That Wine is Business...
Alas, the world is a bit more complicated than that, as the folks who are determining the future of Champagne demonstrate. Wine is a business, and that is as true for the small farmers growing wheat outside of Reims who will soon be able to plant the much more lucrative crop of Pinot Noir and improve their standard of living, as well as the large Champagne houses who will be able to make a few million more bottles to slake the thirst of us wine lovers. Like my wine, I prefer reality with complexity.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Palmiers (Elephant Ears) at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 266Close Zoom Window

Palmiers (Elephant Ears)
Sometimes I just want a quick cookie. Something simple, yet flashy, with very little work on my part. A quick rendezvous in the kitchen with near instant cookie gratification. The answer to this cookie conundrum is the palmier, or elephant ear cookie. A simple French classic, and even though it's French don't let that scare you. Puff pastry and sugar. Bake. Done. Class dismissed. This cookie, due to its simplicity, pairs well with many other desserts or after dinner espresso, coffee, and tea. Yet at the same time the simple addition of spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom or vanilla sugar can make this a very fragrant way to end a meal.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Emilia-Romagna, Part 2
This week it's Part Two of our 10th anniversary special recorded in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. This is the region of Italy that Italians consider their culinary jewel, the land of prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Greek Revival
...In 1942, when Dannon introduced its yogurt in America, the product was such a flop that by 1947, the company began adding fruits and sugar to its tart, European-style cultured milk. Only recently have we finally become smitten by thick, plain yogurts, like those traditionally made in parts of Europe, the Middle East and India. All yogurts begin in the same way - milk is heated and then cooled slightly. Active cultures, which can vary depending on the type of yogurt, are added, and the mixture ferments until it sets. But to make Greek yogurt, the mixture is then strained while still warm to remove the whey and concentrate the yogurt mass. As the yogurt strains it becomes thicker and more acidic, and develops its signature lush, crème-fraîche-like texture. If you're like me, you discovered Greek yogurt only when the word "FAGE" (pronounced FA-yeh) entered your vocabulary.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Zen and the Art of Mandarin Jam at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 447Close Zoom Window

Zen and the Art of Mandarin Jam
Never in a million years would I have believed you if you told me my lust for adventure - my insatiable need for 'new' - would be the first thing to go, and never in a trillion gazillion years would I have even listened to the end of your sentence if you'd dropped the word 'food' in there too. But the signs are becoming hard to ignore. Just yesterday, for example, I realized that I've eaten the same thing for lunch every day for the past twenty-three - count 'em, twenty-three - days. Not more or less the same thing, exactly the same thing: the same ham and cheddar on the same toasted pita with the same tomato chutney, avocado and mayo. And you know what's worse? I'm not even tired of it yet. Oh dear, just admitting that makes me blush.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Proof of Their Existence
I wish I could take credit for this. Well, kinda. After thinking about the world's most unhealthiest combination of foods, chocolate and Fritos,... I was handed a bag... Inside were chocolate-covered Fritos with chipotle. I wish I could say I came up with it first, but I can't. I did manage to eat most of them, but maybe I'm better off not taking credit. I had kinda a chocolate-Frito induced hangover the next morning. And I know it couldn't have been the margaritas...
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Lemon Yogurt Anything Cake at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Lemon Yogurt Anything Cake
We were almost done with our blissful batch of Meyer lemons when I realized that it would be a crime against… well, something dramatic if I finished them without sharing with you a recipe which might look at the outset like just a plain old loaf cake, but should not be taken at face value. You may see lemons and blueberry but I want you to see a palette upon which you can paint your countless citrus yogurt cake dreams. This cake is so moist that it needs to be cut carefully, so not to smoosh the crumbs from the top of the cake into the bottom, and so delicious, I dare you to make it last a week(end).
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

The Way a Cloud Would
They were more delicate and fragile than their prototype, but they were delicious. They were crisp on the outside, just as I wanted, and the inside yielded the way a cloud would, or a down pillow, if clouds and down pillows were edible. It was light and marshmallowy, and it melted the second it hit the tongue. It was a little different from Tartine's, but in some ways, I liked it even better. So we shared another. And then it was decided: these were keepers.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

A Pub Crawl Through the Centuries at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 600 x 300Close Zoom Window

A Pub Crawl Through the Centuries
A pub is a great leveler - not a workingman's club, but an everyman's club. The best are filled not only with the scent of yeast and hops, but also with banter and wit. Back in 1954, when the Rose & Crown in Oxford was threatened with closure (inadequate toilet facilities), the defense that won the day called it a "home of cultured, witty and flippant conversation." Whether it's how to warm plates swiftly or use the hyphen correctly, there's no talk like pub talk. Some, like the Rose & Crown, are a kind of family. But every well-behaved person who is neither a dog nor a politician is welcome too.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Pan-Roasted Striped Bass with
Artichoke Ravioli and Barigoule Vinaigrette

There's a cookbook store I love. There's a café serving what I believe might be the best coffee ever. There's great shopping, and even better people watching. I can see three movies in one day and not feel guilty about it. I can also spend a few days in near-solitude at my favorite hotel near the ocean - laying in an insanely comfy bed for a long afternoon nap, taking long walks, reading good books, sleeping with the windows open so I can hear the ocean, sitting on the beach watching surfers, and just generally clearing my head. I look forward to this little jaunt every year, and I'm always a little sad when it winds to a close.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Coconut Macaroon Pancakes Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Coconut Macaroon Pancakes Recipe
If you can imagine coconut macaroons in pancake form, you'll understand where I'm headed. Moist, golden, coconut-packed, with just a hint of sweetness - these are decadent and delicious. I'll start by telling you, this recipe was a total accident - but an accident in the best way imaginable. I was working on a coconut cookie recipe and had a bit of leftover batter. I looked at the batter, looked at my favorite skillet, and thought to myself - I bet this would make an unbelievable pancake. Just eight ingredients and about ten minutes separate you from a stack of these.
 


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