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New York Times
Dining and Wine

Some Good News on Food Prices at New York Times
Open Zoom Window 190 x 191Close Zoom Window

Some Good News on Food Prices

Higher costs for staple foods could spark a national conversation about why inexpensive food is not really such a bargain after all...

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 April 6 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
April 6, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

On Greens, and How to Keep Them Fresh at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

On Greens, and How to Keep Them Fresh
Wash, don't wash (we're talking about greens again now; we'll address personal hygiene another time), wrap in plastic, cloth, or a paper bag, keep on the counter or refrigerate, and even this one: put the herbs upright in a glass of water and place on a shelf or in the door of your fridge. (That gave my French-sized refrigerator a good laugh.)
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

No Appetite for Noise
More than bad food, more than tipping quandaries, more than someone wondering if a free meal should follow a rodent sighting in a dining room, the most frequent concern I get from readers involves loud restaurants. The complaints about noise have crescendoed so high in recent years that I've decided to add noise ratings to my dining column in the Magazine, beginning April 20. Henceforth, as I make my restaurant rounds, a discreet sound-level meter will be used to determine the average decibel count.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Black Bean Soup with Crab and Chilli at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Black Bean Soup with Crab and Chilli
I conveniently ignore that I was also addicted to a certain starter labelled Mexican rice (which is nothing but a very attractive name for a gruesome concoction of rice with a sliced banana and a generous helping of mayo), made sneaky trips to the kitchen at least once an hour to indulge in a naughty snack of tortilla toasted directly over the gas stove, spread with (again!) mayo and about half a mashed avocado, and just generally was far too liberal with my daily calorie allowance under the pretext that I am not going to be able to enjoy this food forever and must take advantage of it while I can. I can always lose weight when I am dead, right?
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

The 2008 American Wine Blog Award Winners
Three years ago, winning the Best Wine Blog as part of the Food Blogging Awards was great, but when there were only a handful of wine blogs, most of which were barely maintained, someone dedicated like me who knew how to use spell check didn't have much competition, so to speak. In 2008 there are hundreds and hundreds of wine blogs, many of which are written by folks much more serious than I when it comes to wine writing. The quality of wine blogging has grown exponentially, and there are dozens of sites out there that are run like (and indeed are) professional outlets for wine writing. In this context, then, am I both the most proud and the most humbled to have won these awards.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Kohlrabi at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 273Close Zoom Window

Kohlrabi
Have you ever eaten a kohlrabi? These little sputnik-shaped vegetables come in green or purple, can be eaten raw or cooked, and taste a lot like broccoli stems. The word kohlrabi is German for cabbage turnip (kohl as in cole-slaw, and rübe for turnip) though kohlrabi is more related to cabbage and cauliflower than to root vegetables. We usually eat them raw, just peeled, sliced and added to a salad, but they are also delicious cooked and are often used in Indian cuisine.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Emilia-Romagna, Part 1
This week we have the first of two shows recorded in Lynne's beloved Emilia-Romagna. This is the region of Italy that Italians consider their culinary jewel, the land of prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Lynne takes us behind the scenes as no one else can—into balsamic attics and kitchens of legendary country restaurants. She takes us to a town where people still set a place at table for the composer Verdi and his music spills out into the street.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Some Good News on Food Prices
...And if American staples like soda, fast-food hamburgers and frozen dinners don't seem like such a bargain anymore, the American eating public might turn its attention to ingredients like local fruits and vegetables, and milk and meat from animals that eat grass. It turns out that those foods, already favorites of the critics of industrial food, have also dodged recent price increases. Logic would dictate that arguing against cheap food would be the wrong move when the Consumer Price Index puts food costs at about 4.5 percent more this year than last. But for locavores, small growers, activist chefs and others, higher grocery bills might be just the thing to bring about the change they desire. Higher food costs, they say, could push pasture-raised milk and meat past its boutique status, make organic food more accessible and spark a national conversation about why inexpensive food is not really such a bargain after all.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Buckwheat Takes the Cake at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 460Close Zoom Window

Buckwheat Takes the Cake
The buckwheat, a grain that has finally begun to shake its wooly-cardigan and Birkenstock-wearing associations, is a huge part of the cake's allure, lending it exactly the kind of rustic wholesomeness that makes things like graham crackers and digestive biscuits so appealing. Texture-wise, it's darn-near perfect, not too light and not too heavy, its thin, slightly chewy exterior enclosing a soft, moist crumb (which you'd never guess was gluten-free!), plenty of toasted-almond rubble and the gentle whispers of cinnamon and lemon. It's the kind of cake that, like those comfy shoes, will become such an indispensable part of your culinary wardrobe that you'll be hard-pressed to remember life without it.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

It's Spring in Paris!
And how do I know it's spring? Might it be the luscious, ripe strawberries with verdant green stems at my market? Or could it be that it's no longer just the hearty non-smokers occupying the outdoor tables in the cafés, but everyone, hoping to catch a sliver of sunshine? How do I know it's spring? It's because the speedy folks at La Poste—just yesterday—returned an incorrectly addressed Christmas card that I'd sent way back in December, to someone who lives about a mile away, in the same city. I can't wait to see what summer brings. Maybe some of the others?
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Shaker Lemon Pie at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Shaker Lemon Pie
But there was another reason that I knew that it would take more than Meyer lemons to save this tart, and that, my friends, is a simple matter of proportion. The Evil Tart's citrus to sugar ratio was eight whole lemons to three-quarters of a cup. The standard Shaker Lemon Pie recipe uses two whole lemons to two cups of sugar. You don't need to be a math whiz to figure out why that all went to hell in a handbasket. Isn't it great how long I can stay–pardon the pun–bitter over a recipe? Nevertheless, I digressed.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Right This Minute
Anyway, we started last night with my usual mayonnaise formula, and from there we sort of played around, using a good dose of Meyer lemon juice, plus smashed garlic and a small palmful of zest. Then we spooned it into a bowl and passed it around the table, scooping it up on the warm, meaty leaves. And then, when the leaves were gone, we dragged the soft, dense hearts through it too. It's my favorite kind of dinner, really: the kind that gets your hands dirty and makes a mess of the table, the kind that makes everyone go quiet, chewing and gnawing and tugging with their teeth.
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Eat, Memory: Eau God at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 395 x 217Close Zoom Window

Eat, Memory: Eau God
We walked to the spice market, a labyrinthine jumble of open-air stalls and dark corners. Suave and twinkly-eyed, Mohammed combined worldly know-how with a lot of dramatic hand gestures - Omar Sharif for the deaf. I bought cellophane sleeves of turmeric and cumin, thinking of the fabulous tagines I would make when I got home. When a grim-looking vendor had me smell a tiny vial of orange-blossom oil, or neroli, I had a spasm of near-synesthesia - I could almost see orange blossoms. Not really knowing what the oil was used for, I bought the vial for about $12.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Salad of Globe Artichokes
with Garden Herbs and Gazpacho

I don't like them when they're roasted. I don't really enjoy artichoke hearts. I don't even like them with with spinach, cream and cheese in some sort of "dip"-type fashion. I do not plan to start an artichoke fan club. I guess I just haven't ever had a dish in which they were done really well, or that I thought to myself after eating them, "man, I gotta have me some more of them there artichokes!" So me and artichokes? Not really sittin' in a tree, if you will. Eating them, for me, tastes like what I can only imagine licking a metal sliding board must taste like.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Sunburst Carrot Salad Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Sunburst Carrot Salad Recipe
I thought it might make sense to barely blanch the the carrot ribbons in a pot of boiling salted water, just long enough to take the raw edge off. Not the best idea. The carrots ended up limp and lifeless, and they all stuck together. Thinking that I might be able to salvage the attempt, I gave them a spin in the salad spinner - didn't help. Swinging the pendulum in the opposite direction I tried a raw approach - uncooked carrots softened up by the acid in the citrus juice (I tried both lemon and lime juices). Not quite what I was after either. In the end I preferred the melding of flavors that came from zapping the carrot ribbons in a hot skillet w/ a bit of salt and olive oil.
 


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