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New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Just Grate at New York Times Magazine
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The Way We Eat: Just Grate

Self-respecting Italians don't sprinkle cheese on seafood pasta. Too bad for them...

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 March 30 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
March 30, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

On Greens, and How to Keep Them Fresh at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

On Greens, and How to Keep Them Fresh
Wash, don't wash (we're talking about greens again now; we'll address personal hygiene another time), wrap in plastic, cloth, or a paper bag, keep on the counter or refrigerate, and even this one: put the herbs upright in a glass of water and place on a shelf or in the door of your fridge. (That gave my French-sized refrigerator a good laugh.)
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Chipotle Heads to the Farm
And yet, some regional chains and national food service providers are launching their own buy-local experiments. For some, like Chipotle, it fits their corporate mission. Others are driven by rising concerns about food safety, skyrocketing fuel costs and growing consumer demand for fresh, seasonal food. Whatever the reason, the attempts are spurring a massive overhaul of the way these businesses operate, from the way they plan menus and pick suppliers to the way they think about food costs and distribution.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Warm Salad of Steamed Baby Leeks & Deconstructed Eggs Mimosa at Pass...Open Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Warm Salad of Steamed Baby Leeks & Deconstructed Eggs Mimosa
So, in case you are facing the same problem right now, here's an idea for using up those eggs (I don't know why I don't just throw them in the bin, to be honest, it's not like they're from Faberge or anything...) - eggs mimosa (or devilled eggs) are a common sight this time of the year, but in this case we're only using their essence: the eggs chopped finely with some capers, parsley and fresh anchovies (optional) and sprinkled over some steamed baby leeks (or indeed, asparagus, beans or whichever vegetable seems to be in season in your neck of the woods), finished off with a simple French dressing. The perfect dish to get your stomach back in gear after a weekend or over-indulgence...
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Letting Kids Drink Some Wine at Home:
The Debate

Studies (cited in Eric's article) may suggest that there may be a correlation between families who allow a little alcohol consumption in the controlled environment of the home and a reduction in likelihood for binge drinking or alcoholism. There's not clearly enough clinical evidence yet to say for sure. But I do firmly believe that throughout history we have been shown definitive proof that outlawing anything that humans enjoy putting in their bodies is never a solution for moderating its use.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

How to Make Butterscotch at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 393 x 310Close Zoom Window

How to Make Butterscotch
Historically, butterscotch was a hard candy made with unprocessed sugar. The suffix "scotch" means "to cut". When sugar or candy is hot it's difficult to get a clean break, so one must score it while warm to facilitate getting a clean edge later. Today butterscotch is considered a flavor, much like caramel. Made famous at soda fountains by accompanying banana splits, butterscotch sauce has been an American favorite since the 1950's. Although most Americans are familiar with butterscotch pudding, in recent years what's been readily available is an artificially flavored shadow real butterscotch flavor.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Thomas Jefferson on Wine
Thomas Jefferson was the first American to make a serious study of wine. He not only collected and drank it, he toured vineyards, learned first hand, and took copious notes. John Hailman, author of Jefferson on Wine, spent 30 years studying the writing of a man way ahead of his time.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 198 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Just Grate
...From Palermo to Palos Verdes, the more outraged and belligerent they became, the more I stood my ground. Don't put cheese on your seafood, don't order a cappuccino after noon, keep your bread right side up - the rules never stopped. Was I in my own culinary Siberia? Where did this no-cheese ordinance originate, and could I find a reputable Italian chef willing to break rank with me?
 

The Pour - Eric Asimov - New York Times The Pour
Eric Asimov - New York Times

Should Wine Be a Family Affair?
For generations of parents and children growing up in the world's wine regions this has never been a difficult question. Young children at the family meal have traditionally received a spoon of wine in their water at family meals, a kind of ritualistic bonding exercise that both solidifies their position as part of the group and conveys the idea that wine is a food. Teenagers might get a small glass of their own, cementing the connection between wine, food and family, with the additional benefit of exercising their palates.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Buckwheat Takes the Cake at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 460Close Zoom Window

Buckwheat Takes the Cake
The key word here is quietly, because this cake is far from a show-stealer at first glance. It's a plain cake, drab greyish-brown in color, and even the suggested accompaniments of whipped cream and blueberry compote do little to improve its lot in the looks department. Its flavor is also unexpectedly subtle, and easily loses its voice under more aggressive toppings. But on its own, perhaps cut in a thick wedge and eaten while leaning sleepily against the kitchen counter, the day's first cup of strong, milky coffee in the other hand, you'll have no problem finding its charms. Beautiful it ain't, but spend some time alone together, and you'll realize this cake makes up for it with some serious personality.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Carrot Cake, French-Style
Indeed, I remember making an all-American dinner for some friends and when I'd mentioned "carrot" cake coming afterwards, the look on their faces was like, "WTF?" One mouthful, and of course, they loved it. But then again, you could slather cream cheese frosting on an Michelin tire and it would be enticing as well. Much of it may be attributed to cultural differences. After all, when was the last time any of you Americans out there looked forward to digging in to a pile of sausages made from the bowels of pigs?
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Swiss Easter Rice Tart at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Swiss Easter Rice Tart
I desperately wanted to make it again with whole raspberries pressed in right before it is baked, or topped with a tart fruit sauce, but then it wouldn't exactly be a traditional Swiss Easter Rice Tart anymore, would it? So, in the end, though it was delicious in its own way, I just wasn't head-over-heels for it. Fortunately, the Easter ham–oh right! and the awesome company–far exceeded my expectations. My next task: One of these fruitcakes I hear can be eaten up to ten years after they're made! My mind boggles.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

That's All
I remember next to nothing of our brief stay there, save for finding our hostel and showering for the first time in days, eating a mediocre waffle, and having a stranger come up close behind me on a street corner and say, breathing heavily into my ear, what I understood as, “Nice neck.” Of course, as it turns out, the words for “neck” and “ass” sound almost identical in French. But hey, you know, either way. By now, I was long overdue to a return visit.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Joy of (Still) Cooking at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 143Close Zoom Window

The Joy of (Still) Cooking
The answer, she told me, is that in many households, the pots and pans are all but retired with the emptying of the nest. The phrase "cutting the apron strings" turns out to have literal meaning. As soon as your children are out the door, you get rid of the apron. No more countless supermarket runs - just the occasional small shopping trip. No more nightly grind of turning out balanced meals with protein, vegetables and a starch. No more scrubbing pots and pans. You trade all that for freedom. And that's the part that baffles me. Freedom from what? Eating tasty, home-cooked meals?
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Roasted Guinea Fowl en Crèpinette de Byaldi with Pan Jus
I remember how great the ratatouille smelled, but I remember not really liking it at all. I didn't like tomatoes back then, and the eggplant was gooey. I'd always liked zucchini and summer squash, so I picked out those pieces and chowed those down. Ditto for the onions. Everything else, I kind of pushed around on the plate until it looked like I'd eaten a lot of it. I remember wiping up the sauce with some bread, which was really good, but the rest of it kind of looked like it had already been eaten when it was served to me, if you catch my drift.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Spring Wild Rice Salad Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Spring Wild Rice Salad Recipe
For those of you who don't cook with wild rice often, there is a whole world of wild rice to learn about. The first thing (and many of you already know this), wild rice isn't actually a rice - it's an annual aquatic grass. There are a wide range of wild rices available. Some come from their native upper Great Lakes region, others come from Idaho, Washington, and California. You can buy hand-harvested wild rice, you can buy cultivated wild rice. Connoisseurs will be quick to tell you that wild rice hand-harvested from a canoe is like a fine wine, the creme de la creme, others counter that at $10-$20 per pound not everyone can afford it.
 


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