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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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The Way We Eat: The Book of James at New York Times Magazine
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The Way We Eat: The Book of James

"Beard on Food" is up there with the other culinary bibles.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 March 16 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
March 16, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Grated Carrots and Beets at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Grated Carrots and Beets
If you've never tasted the root of a beet in its raw state, I urge you to give it a try, whether or not you (think you) despise cooked beets, for the two provide very different taste experiences. Granted, the addition of grated beets to a grated carrot salad does not cause any sort of quantum shift, but it does add a deeper note to the chord, sweet yet throaty, and it colors the whole thing with the beetroot's infectious purple enthusiasm.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Which Wine Drinker Are You?
If it becomes widely accepted, Hanni's system could upend the way we think, judge, even talk about wine. Instead of 100-point scales or talk of "grassy," "gooseberry" notes - wine descriptors that Hanni says can become "insufferable" mumbo jumbo - drinkers would need only to understand what makes up a perfect score or pleasant flavor for them. That can vary widely depending on physiology, sex and personal experience. At a 2006 pinot noir judging in San Francisco, the female judges' first choice came in 35th out of 40 among the men. The men's first choice came in 35th out of 40 for the women. (Women are much more likely than men to be sensitive or hypersensitive tasters, though sex isn't a determining factor.)
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Scallops on Chicory, Dolcelatte and Walnut Salad at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Scallops on Chicory, Dolcelatte and Walnut Salad
...and then you sit down and you eat one bite and then another and all of a sudden your focus is where it should be: your tastebuds (or shall I say, papillae circumvallate?). And with every mouthful you enjoy your dinner more and you almost wipe away a tear as you eat your last bite... I never thought scallops, blue cheese and thyme could form such a perfect union and the chicory is not nearly as bitter as they make you believe, now that it is at the height of its season - a wonderful dish that I will certainly serve as a starter at the next dinner party, if ever I should get my life back ;-)
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Food and Wine Pairing is Just a Big Scam
Some taste chestnuts, some taste tobacco, some cedar, and some espresso. So if the world's foremost wine experts can't even agree on what an individual wine tastes like in a controlled setting, how on earth could someone suggest they will know what it will taste like with rosemary and garlic rubbed lamb shank with new potatoes and sautéed Swiss chard?
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Home Fries at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 266Close Zoom Window

Home Fries
Mom makes her fried potatoes sliced, using raw potatoes, and usually serves them as a side when we have fish for dinner. Dad makes his home fries for breakfast using leftover boiled potatoes from the night before. Both are great. The raw potatoes tend to brown up better. The cooked potatoes can get a little mushy if you stir them too much. You can easily dress up them up with bell peppers, ham, or bacon. And if you add some egg, you get German farmer's breakfast.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Bananas and Politics
This week it's a different look at the seemingly simple and innocent banana. It's played a role in building regimes, toppling governments, partnering with the CIA and even gave Elvis his legendary grilled peanut butter and banana sandwich. Our guest is Dan Koeppel, author of Banana: The Fate of the Fruit that Changed the World.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Fungus That Conquered Europe
Americans may think of the disease that destroyed Ireland's potato crops, late blight, as a European phenomenon, but its devastations actually started with them. The origin of the fungal organism responsible, Phytophthora infestans, has been traced to a valley in the highlands of central Mexico, and the first recorded instances of the disease are in the United States, with the sudden and mysterious destruction of potato crops around Philadelphia and New York in early 1843. Within months, winds spread the rapidly reproducing airborne spores of the disease, and by 1845 it had destroyed potato crops from Illinois east to Nova Scotia, and from Virginia north to Ontario.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

5 Things to Love about Calabria at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 475 x 325Close Zoom Window

5 Things to Love about Calabria
If there is one thing that makes Calabrian food Calabrian, it is spicy red peppers, and oh my, they are hot. And they're in everything: the salami, the sausage, the vegetables, the pasta, the fritters. They make a starring appearance in the ubiquitous Calabrian pork paté called 'nduja (pronounced in-DOO-ya), which in some versions is like a coarse meat paste with peppers, and in others, a devilishly hot pepper spread with a only a suggestion of pork. And worry not - if, by some slim chance, you happen to be served something in a restaurant that is not quite up to your heat tolerance, just ask for the pepper sauce - they always have a jar of it standing around somewhere.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Exceptions Gourmandes
Someone chided me for having French Wine For Dummies on my bookshelf, but gave me a pass for having Rocco's book. Hey, it was a gift from him. What was I going to say?—No? Had I known they were going to use all the photos that were snapped, I might have cleaned myself up a bit. Or at least tucked my undershirt in. (Now if I could only find out how to charge $4300 for a few hours work, I could afford a real haircut and a new keypad for my Mac. I dropped a saucepan on it and broke off a few keys. Luckily I don't use X much, and I can use 2+1 instead of 'three'.)
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Butterscotch Ice Cream at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Butterscotch Ice Cream
This is the only way I can explain why a seasoned (stop laughing) cook such as myself would follow his Step 3 to take a pot full of simmering ingredients right off the stove and pour them over egg yolks, creating–you guessed it–some fugly chunks of hard-boiled egg. I kid you not. The man behind Cook's Illustrated and America's Test Kitchen, he whose reputation is built upon exhaustedly-tested and finely-tweaked recipes, ruined my pudding. Hm. I don't sound bitter, do I?
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

To Say Hello
But pitted against gaufres de Liège, and all that frothy Belgian beer, and Paris's infinitely restorative butter and cheese and baguettes and wine and candied bacon ice cream (yes, I can attest; that stuff really is delicious), it didn't stand a chance. Not a one. It feels good to be home, but I think it'll feel even better in a few days. Especially once I figure out how to make the Moroccan crêpes we ate at Brussels's Marché du Midi, warm and fat with fresh goat cheese, honey, and spicy olives. That'll feel very, very good.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Upton Sinclair, Now Playing on YouTube at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 285Close Zoom Window

Upton Sinclair, Now Playing on YouTube
After more than 25 years of tactics that have included tossing a dead raccoon on to the lunch plate of Anna Wintour, the Vogue editor; boycotting fast-food restaurants; and staging legal challenges, the animal rights movement had a bona fide hit. A new generation of cameras so small they can be hidden in eyeglass frames or a hat - together with the rise of YouTube and the growing appeal of so-called citizen journalism — has done for animal rights advocates what the best-organized protest could not. Perhaps more than other social agitators, people concerned about animals raised for food have discovered that downloadable video can be the most potent weapon in their arsenal.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Pear Strudel with Chestnut Cream
and Pear Chips

They got the Comice pears off the truck and before they even logged it in the system, they brought the entire crate to the store floor for me to pick through so I could choose which ones I wanted. Of course, during this whole time, the Stupid Store Manager Lady never reappeared. Bint. No, I'm not bitter, why? I thanked Paolo and his supervisor (and slipped them both a small tip because they always take care of me), and got my ass out of that store and back home to cook.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Anzac Cookies Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Anzac Cookies Recipe
The legend and lore surrounding the origin of the recipe are murky and contested, many tell the story of these cookies (biscuits) being made by Australian and New Zealand women for soldiers during WWI. This wartime version is famous for being able to withstand overseas travel and oft described as rock hard and barely edible. What we are talking about today is a different beast. How it evolved from the barely edible variety, I'm not entirely sure, but maybe someone will come out of the woodwork in the comments to give us a bit more context.
 


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