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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Dairies Are Half-Pint, but the Flavor Isn't at New York Times
Open Zoom Window 395 x 296Close Zoom Window

The Dairies Are Half-Pint, but the Flavor Isn't

Small dairy farmers, unable to keep afloat selling milk to large processors, are turning to alternatives such as making butter, yogurt and crème fraîche.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 February 24 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
February 24, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Super Simple Nutella Ice Cream at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Super Simple Nutella Ice Cream
As the obligatory spoon test revealed (take spoonful, place on tongue, close mouth, draw spoon out, close eyes, swish, chew, swallow), this Not-ella is less sweet than its world-renowned cousin, and less eerily smooth, too. It would be unfair to describe the texture as grainy - it is not - but the tongue senses and aknowledges that real hazelnuts have given their lives for the cause.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Bowl 'Em Over
Some say the name stems from the French word "chaudiere," or cauldron, a reference to the vessel the dish was first cooked in. But White points out that the word "jowter," meaning fishmonger, was being used in coastal regions of England as early as the 16th century. He speculates that chowder is just one of those dishes that "occurred simultaneously in many parts of the world," a notion that makes some sense given its regional quality. The classics, of course, are well known and loved...
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Tom Pla Style Soup with Salmon and Asparagus at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Tom Pla Style Soup with Salmon and Asparagus
Some greens (asparagus, mange-tout, chard), some protein (fish, prawns, even chicken, if you like), then add some noodles (any Asian type, really, but I love the Japanese buckwheat noodles above all) and mushrooms, if you like. The only thing that is non-negotiable for me is a generous helping of spring onions and coriander - and of course, tons of ginger and lime juice - which is just as well, as they're a real boost for your immune system.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

All You Can Drink Wine Bars?
I'm Moving to Germany!

OK. Not really. But Germany now seems to be the dream destination for either those who enjoy an evening with wine, or those with a serious binge drinking problem. According to a New York Times Travel section piece earlier in the month, an enterprising Berliner named Jürgen Stumpf has opened four wine bars in which patrons rent a glass at a price of one Euro, drink as much wine as they want throughout the evening, and simply pay what they think they owe at the end of the night.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Baklava at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 268Close Zoom Window

Baklava
Baklava is a delicious phyllo pastry popular in Middle Eastern countries. Its supposed origins are Turkish, dating to the Byzantine Empire (or even further), though many cultures claim it for their own. Many Greek and Lebanese restaurants serve it, and it is now a featured dessert of several former Ottoman countries. In baklava, layers of crisp phyllo dough alternate with a sugary spiced nut mixture, and the whole thing is then soaked in fragrant sweet syrup made with honey, lemon and cinnamon. It's an exotic and decadent treat to be sure.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

The Warmest Room in the House
This week it's a look at the American kitchen—from the sanitized scientific outpost of yesteryear to today's family-oriented center of cherry cabinets, granite countertops and culinary toys galore. Our guest is Steven Gdula, author of The Warmest Room in the House: How the Kitchen Became the Heart of the Twentieth-Century American Home.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

Eric Asimov - New York Times - Dining and Wine Eric Asimov - New York Times
Dining and Wine

Chianti Steps Out of Its Straw Skirt
The Chianti region in the hills of Tuscany is the spiritual home of the sangiovese grape. With its black cherry and violet aromas, its earthy mineral flavors, its lively acidity and its sometimes dusty tannins, sangiovese speaks directly from the Italian soul. At least that's the idea. Unfortunately it has rarely worked out that way. Like a family constantly at odds, Chianti has seldom been able to present a unified face to the world, except, alas, for those straw bottles that were once emblematic of Italian wine. A good deal of Chianti's troubles have been self-imposed, as Italian wine bureaucrats have veered wildly in the past 40 years trying to define and redefine what makes a Chianti, generally at the expense of sangiovese.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

The Little Black Dress of Dinner at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 455Close Zoom Window

The Little Black Dress of Dinner
Anyone who purports to know even a little about fashion knows that the one indispensable item in any woman's wardrobe is the little black dress. It's elegant, it's sophisticated, it's perfect for any occasion, and most importantly, you don't have to think about it; you just throw it on and you're dressed for anything, regardless of which way the fickle winds of fashion happen to be blowing the rest of your attire. Well, believe it or not, I've actually survived for thirty years without a little black dress (in truth, I've bought several over the years, but none has ever been that black dress), but I do have something in my arsenal I couldn't survive without. Let's call it the little black dress of dinner.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

chez Petrossian
There's a debate in the blogging community, that some of you may not be privy to—or more likely, give a hoot about—concerning gifts from companies. I'm always reading these things on bulletin boards, such as... "I'm really conflicted. Mercedes-Benz would like to upgrade the S-class sedan they gave me last year with a convertible, but if I accept it, does that compromise my integrity?" And I'm, like, "Dude, take the upgrade! ...and kill the blog!"
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Pear and Almond Tart at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Pear and Almond Tart
It's because they say things like "Why'd do you do it?" - "it" being baking a rich chocolate cake topped with raspberries and chocolate ganache - "I mean, it's great, but cakes like this are the reason pastry shops were invented." As someone who delights in making elaborate cakes, but also advises people to only choose one plat de résistance when entertaining, this captivated me. French women, says Dorie, keep it simple when they bake at home, and they're not afraid to use bits and pieces purchased elsewhere - a tart dough, some prepared fruit, almond cream-to get the job done.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Over and Over Again
Then we just sat there for a while, oars up, admiring the white-bellied yachts with frilly names like Princess and Dream Catcher, and let the current pull us slowly back to shore. That's all I ever want to do, really. Just sit in a rowboat all day, maybe with a blanket for extra warmth, and a large thermos of hot chocolate, and let the waves teeter-totter me around. I'm not sure where Rainy Old February has gone, but I hope it stays there for a little while longer. Until tomorrow, at least.
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Recipe Redux 1876: New Jersey Blanc Mange at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 190 x 142Close Zoom Window

Recipe Redux 1876: New Jersey Blanc Mange
Pickled oysters were a common snack, and you could find the occasional brain fritter and kidney omelet. But nothing seems to have got cooks more excited than a chance to entomb a favorite food in jelly. Into a preserve went perfectly innocent ham, pineapple, calf's foot, sole, even a chicken or two. And then there was milk. Sweetened with sugar, lemon, almond, cinnamon and sometimes even chocolate, milk was ideal for pouring into molds and serving for dessert as a beloved dish called blancmange, which means "white food." Tapped out of its form, blancmange is gorgeous and subdued, like a piece of carved ivory.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

French Laundry at Home Special Edition:
Per Se, Encore

Parsnip-Vanilla Soup with Tarragon-infused Olive Oil: Plates and a small bowl with teeny, tiny cubes of pickled potatoes arrived on the table, followed by Mike, our awesome server (more on him later), who poured the soup from a lovely silver pitcher of creamy goodness. It was all I could do to NOT stick my face in the bowl to lick it clean. I am not kidding you when I say that this is the best soup I've had in my entire life. Amd you know what? I've had a buttload of soup in my life. Well, maybe buttload is not the most appropriate or accurate way to describe the vast quantities of soup I have personally consumed. But I digress. Best. Soup. Ever.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Chickpea Hot Pot Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Chickpea Hot Pot Recipe
One of the problems I run into are the almost empty bags and jars - the 1/2 cup of purple rice here, the 3/4 cup of whole wheat couscous there. I end up with whole clusters of these stragglers. On this particular cleaning spree I came face to face with a large billowy plastic bag containing just a handful or two of bulgur wheat nestled in one of its corners. Not wanting to toss it out, I used it as the starting point for today's recipe.
 


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