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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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New York Times
Dining and Wine

Dark May Be King, but Milk Chocolate Makes a Move at New York Times
Open Zoom Window 190 x 259Close Zoom Window

Dark May Be King, but Milk Chocolate Makes a Move

Milk chocolate has grown up and is being reinvented and refined to give it the snap and velvet of dark.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 February 17 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
February 17, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Super Simple Nutella Ice Cream at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Super Simple Nutella Ice Cream
As the obligatory spoon test revealed (take spoonful, place on tongue, close mouth, draw spoon out, close eyes, swish, chew, swallow), this Not-ella is less sweet than its world-renowned cousin, and less eerily smooth, too. It would be unfair to describe the texture as grainy - it is not - but the tongue senses and aknowledges that real hazelnuts have given their lives for the cause.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Like Water for Chocolate
Some don't quite see it that way. They represent one side in the culinary battle of aesthetics and ideals and of taste in the most literal sense of the word. These traditionalists believe that cooking needs to be preserved; that one should adhere to the rules, not question them. On the other side you find the followers of foam: the innovators who, inspired by the findings of modern food science and molecular gastronomy, believe that the way we cook needs to be revolutionized.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Tom Pla Style Soup with Salmon and Asparagus at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Tom Pla Style Soup with Salmon and Asparagus
Some greens (asparagus, mange-tout, chard), some protein (fish, prawns, even chicken, if you like), then add some noodles (any Asian type, really, but I love the Japanese buckwheat noodles above all) and mushrooms, if you like. The only thing that is non-negotiable for me is a generous helping of spring onions and coriander - and of course, tons of ginger and lime juice - which is just as well, as they're a real boost for your immune system.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Wine Marketing Techniques That Need to Stop
County fair medals are only marginally more respectable than those PHD degrees that you can pay $49.95 for by mail. Sure accolades are great, but gold medals from fairs aren't worth your effort. Mostly because they're so easy to get, and pretty much everyone who wants one can have one. If I only had a nickel for every gold medal winning wine I tasted that ended up being awful....
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Chicken Piccata at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 266Close Zoom Window

Chicken Piccata
Sometimes it amazes me how a simple combination of basic, on-hand ingredients can yield such delightful results. Chicken piccata is nothing more than chicken breast cutlets, dredged in flour, browned, and served with a sauce of butter, lemon juice, capers, and either stock or white wine. It can be prepared in less than 20 minutes and is so easy and delicious it should be part of every home cook's repertoire.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Service Included
This week it's a peek into the life of a waiter at one of the world's most demanding restaurants. It's a profession and high craft, and not for the faint of heart. Our guest is Phoebe Damrosch, former waiter at Chef Thomas Keller's acclaimed Per Se in New York City. Phoebe tells all in her book Service Included: Four-Star Secrets of an Eavesdropping Waiter.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Going Out to Eat, but Staying Green
The seal of approval for many environmentally concerned dining places around the country comes from the nonprofit Green Restaurant Association, founded by Michael Oshman in 1990, when, he said, there was no green business movement. Now, his organization, based in Boston, has more than 350 members, which for an annual fee of $500 to $4,000, depending on their size, get a "Green Restaurant" seal for their windows once they replace all polystyrene foam products, agree to recycle as much as possible, and begin to phase in other environmental measures, including composting, conserving water, disposing of grease responsibly and using chlorine-free paper products.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

As Long as There's Chocolate... at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 454Close Zoom Window

As Long as There's Chocolate...
Well, I've had a change of heart. In fact, after spending most of my adult life avoiding it as assiduously as possible, I've decided that Valentine's Day is actually - wait for it, this is big - worth celebrating after all. Now please understand, my issues with Valentine's Day don't come from the hardened bitterness of having spent one too many of them alone. As you know, I'm a married woman, and have in fact spent the last ten years of my life passionately in love. But as much as that deserves celebrating, and as much as I love having an excuse to eats lots of chocolate, there's always been a couple of things about Valentine's Day that I cannot seem to make my peace with.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

WTF
Since then, whenever something odd or stupefying happens, it's now called a "Welcome to France moment". Or a WTF moment. They come at you all the time around here. There's lots of WTF moments. Times when I cock my head to the side, squint one eye, and jerk my head back in disbelief. Like when the bank teller insists they're out of change, (although that wouldn't seem so far-fetched now).
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Best Chocolate Pudding at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Best Chocolate Pudding
You see, chocolate pudding has lost its way. Over the years, as chocolate desserts have gotten more and more decadent, so-called "puddings" have followed suit. Suddenly, the chocolate pudding that your grandmother made for your mother, or your mother made for you has been poshed up with cream and butter and egg yolks. They're made in food processors, they're hit up with immersion blenders, they're lightened with whipped egg whites, they're baked in ramekins in water baths covered with tented foil.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Like a Lullaby
The Taste of Country Cooking, her second book, was published in 1976, wrapped a yellow and brown cover with an endearing shot of Miss Lewis on the front, standing in a field of sunflowers, wearing a pinky-white dress and gazing into a bowl of tomatoes. Organized by season, the book is filled with reminiscences on her childhood and the food her family grew, cooked, and ate. It's like a lullaby in printed form. I don't know about you, but I think someone would have to be pretty heartless to not feel pleasantly dopey after a passage like this...
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Slow Food at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 190 x 143Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: Slow Food
What nicer day to spend the afternoon simmering a meaty ragł that will taste even better the following week? It will also freeze beautifully for that freak blizzard in April. Ragł - a thick sauce of minced vegetables, meat, tomato paste, wine and, depending on whose grandmother you ask, tomatoes — has long been a staple of the Italian kitchen, where it's generally known as Sunday sauce. Travel south and it might be made with neck bones or goat and called gravy; head over to Emilia-Romagna and it's Bolognese, enriched with milk.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Valentine Schmalentine
I toyed with the idea of making one of The French Laundry desserts last night, posting it today, and wishing you all an early happy Valentine's Day with lots of hearts and flowers, but then I came to my senses and remembered that I think Valentine's Day is actually kind of dumb (shouldn't we do nice things for the people we care about all year, instead of just on one day?), and changed my mind. Nevertheless, love is in the air here at French Laundry at Home, oh yes it is... and by that, of course, I mean my undying love for all of you who come back...
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Garam Masala Tofu Scramble Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Garam Masala Tofu Scramble Recipe
Even if you think you aren't a tofu fan, this one might win you over, and I encourage you to give it a go. Try not to think of the tofu scramble as a replacement for an egg-based scramble - even though we are appropriating the word here. The crumbled tofu merits its own realm of culinary exploration, and while many of the ingredients you might pair with an egg scramble might work here, the reverse is less likely to be true.
 


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