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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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February 2008
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La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

Lime Mousse and Apple Tartlet at La Tartine Gourmande
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Lime Mousse and Apple Tartlet

Why not lime mousse tartlets?

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 February 10 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
February 10, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Warm Hokkaido Squash and White Bean Salad at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Warm Hokkaido Squash and White Bean Salad
The result is a down comforter of a salad, sweet without excess, and filling in a way that's most welcome after a run in the park in late afternoon (i.e. when it is dark enough that toddlers have been dragged home, but not so dark that you trip on tree roots and abandoned toys). I didn't have any cilantro (I can't find it at the market in the wintertime) and I'd already used up my weekly allotment of parsley, but if you have some sort of leafy herb on hand, the salad will enjoy the greenness of it.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Plastic Bags, Headed for A Meltdown
In 2002, Ireland instituted a 15-cent tax on plastic bags to end the "litter menace," and Bangladesh banned them outright. This year, China and Australia will outlaw them. Here at home, San Francisco has begun requiring shops to use only bags made of at least 40 percent recycled paper. And on Jan. 22, trendsetter Whole Foods announced that as of Earth Day (April 22) it no longer will offer plastic bags to customers at the checkout counters. The move, the company estimates, will take 100 million new bags out of circulation by the end of 2008. Get that 98 percent recycled tote ready. You're going to need it.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Tom Pla Style Soup with Salmon and Asparagus at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Tom Pla Style Soup with Salmon and Asparagus
Some greens (asparagus, mange-tout, chard), some protein (fish, prawns, even chicken, if you like), then add some noodles (any Asian type, really, but I love the Japanese buckwheat noodles above all) and mushrooms, if you like. The only thing that is non-negotiable for me is a generous helping of spring onions and coriander - and of course, tons of ginger and lime juice - which is just as well, as they're a real boost for your immune system.
 

The Pour - Eric Asimov - New York Times The Pour
Eric Asimov - New York Times

Why Hate Bordeaux?
Bordeaux is so, well, old. Leading wine critics like Hugh Johnson, Jancis Robinson, Robert M. Parker Jr., Stephen Tanzer, Michael Broadbent, Wine Spectator and the rest may all have their differences, but they all embrace Bordeaux as the world's leading wine. Many wine lovers coming of age today begin by rejecting the primacy of critics and their scores, and so reject Bordeaux, which stands with them as the established order. Of course this is a gross simplification of both Bordeaux and wine critics, but I think it accurately reflects an attitude among a small segment of influential wine people.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Chocolate Dipped Strawberries at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 266Close Zoom Window

Chocolate Dipped Strawberries
A classic little treat perfect for a date or as a gift, chocolate covered strawberries are a defined part of romance in America. Dressed up to the nines in white and dark chocolate tuxedos, they have some cuteness added to them here. It's a treat that's perfect for that special someone.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

The Seventh Daughter
This week it's a look at the life of a culinary innovator. Cecilia Chiang was a pioneer in bringing regional Chinese food to America with the opening of The Mandarin, her San Francisco restaurant. It became a culinary landmark and Cecilia became a leader in the city's food community. Her book, The Seventh Daughter: My Culinary Journey from Beijing to San Francisco tells her story.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

When Anxiety Is at the Table at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 600 x 300Close Zoom Window

When Anxiety Is at the Table
Ms. Johnson and I are but two of the estimated five to seven million Americans battling obsessive-compulsive disorder, an anxiety disorder characterized by intrusive distressing thoughts and repetitive rituals aimed at dislodging those thoughts. We are an eclectic bunch spanning every imaginable cross-section of society, and we battle an equally eclectic mix of obsessions and compulsions. Some of us obsess about contamination, others about hurting people, and still others about symmetry. Almost all of us can find something to obsess about at a restaurant.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Tigres to the Rescue at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 459Close Zoom Window

Tigres to the Rescue
In all honesty, I never expected to be bringing you this recipe. Well, certainly not now at any rate, when six weeks into your New Year's resolutions (and mine - don't remind me!) the last thing you need is a recipe instructing you to dust off the deep-fryer and plunge something béchamel-filled and crumb-coated inside. But desperate times call for desperate measures, and in this case I'm feeling pretty desperate after a string of recipe experiments so mediocre I don't even want to want to bore you with the details.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Chez Panisse Almond Tart
And I'm reading this at 8am, thinking, "Good lord. Who on earth would send someone a message like that?" I mean, do those people talk to their friends like that? Do they talk to strangers like that? If they need to go to the grocery store, I can't imagine how they treat the cashiers and other shoppers. Do they have jobs? Come to think of it, if the message was in French, I would have sworn they worked at my France Telecom office.
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Dulce de Leche Cheesecake Squares at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Dulce de Leche Cheesecake Squares
Oh, sure, I knew what you were and I understood implicitly that you were a good thing. I knew that you were practically the national dish of Argentina and I knew I wanted to be the national dish of, well, anywhere, one day but I hadn't yet taken you into my arms and my belly. I hadn't yet really tasted you. I am sooo going to have to make up for lost time.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

In All the Right Places
Just so you know, you can assemble the rolls the day ahead. (That way, you won't have to wake up ungodly early to have them ready in time for breakfast.) Go ahead and make the dough, fill it, cut it into individual rolls, put the rolls in their pans, and then refrigerate them, covered with plastic wrap, overnight. The next morning, pull them from the fridge, let them do their final rise, and bake them. That's how I like to do it. Cinnamon rolls taste best on a good night's sleep, I find.
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Eat, Memory: Sacred Chow at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 600 x 330Close Zoom Window

Eat, Memory: Sacred Chow
When my cakes would turn to glue, he would dispose of the mess with grim triumph. Wasted eggs, wasted butter, wasted precious gray ration-shop sugar. I felt the same shame as I did when I stood before my father with the mathematics paper that came back with half a mark out of 100. But while I accepted the mantle of shame in mathematics, it was harder to be humiliated in the field of macaroons. For a while, I refused to succumb, even as Saratbhai began to hide the flour behind the gas tank, the oil behind the old newspapers. Before I could cook, I had to go on a treasure hunt, my time further curbed, haste as poisonous for cooking as fear, of course.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

"Liver & Onions" - Sautéed Calf's Liver, Vidalia and Red Onion Confit, Onion Rings, and Vinegar Sauce
I was sitting in our family room watching TV, and as the smells began to waft from the kitchen down to where I was, I wondered to myself, "Wow. Who died in our kitchen and how long has the body been rotting there?" Or had the sewer line backed up? Or maybe my brother was suffering from one of his famous Dorito-induced farting spells? As I walked up the stairs from the family room to the ktichen to sit down at the table for dinner, I realized the smell was actually food-related when I saw what was sitting on our plates at the table. Liver. As we talked about our day, I ate whatever the side dishes were, and tried one bite of liver even though I hated it. I wanted to at least get credit for trying it. But I couldn't get past one bite.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Curried Egg Salad Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Curried Egg Salad Recipe
To this day I rarely (if ever) eat one unless I make it myself. That being said, I've become quite fond of my egg salad creations, and I'd like to share a version with you that is a bit more flashy and interesting than the one we did last time. It uses plain yogurt in place of mayo and incorporates curry powder, chopped apples, toasted pecans, and minced chives. Sometimes I eat it on toasted, garlic-rubbed bread, and sometimes I eat it wrapped in a big leaf of lettuce. Color-flecked, delicious and satisfying.
 


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