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February 2008
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Béatrice Peltre

Death by Chocolate Contest at La Tartine Gourmande
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Death by Chocolate Contest

The word has nine letters and it starts with a C.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 February 3 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
February 3, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Rose and Chocolate Marshmallows at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 372Close Zoom Window

Rose and Chocolate Marshmallows
Painful memories aside, guimauve has been a long-time resident on my make-my-own list. I've been collecting recipes for years like they were butterflies, but never actually followed through. Why? Because they all called for sirop de glucose, a thick glucose syrup that's dearly loved by professional pastry chefs but has yet to become a home baking staple. I know where to find it, but I don't feel like buying a 2-pound tub just to make marshmallows.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

The New Food Inspector: You
In 2007, the Food Marketing Institute, a trade group of food retailers and wholesalers, reported that the number of shoppers confident that food at the grocery store was safe had dropped to 66 percent from 82 percent the previous year. (Just 43 percent were confident about getting safe food at restaurants.) In a GfK Roper Public Affairs & Media survey taken in November, 50 percent of respondents said they were confident that there were adequate food safety regulations in place. "Locavore," a term for a person who seeks out locally produced food, was the New Oxford American Dictionary's 2007 word of the year.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Lemon Mergingue Pie... the Daring Bakers are at it Again! at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Lemon Mergingue Pie...
the Daring Bakers are at it Again!

I have actually made one before, albeit with a completely different recipe. I also had the problem of the meringue sweating not even an hour into its short life, which didn't matter taste wise, but wasn't a pretty sight. Not this time. The pie held its shape for hours (well, until we couldn't hold back any more and had to polish it off) and I was thoroughly impressed as my daughter declared her love for it - anything involving lemon and peel is not necessarily something that ranks high up the list of children's favourite food, but maybe that's just a sign of her growing up.
 

The Pour - Eric Asimov - New York Times The Pour
Eric Asimov - New York Times

More on the Befuddlement of Liquor Laws
What's astounding about this story is how very few people understand the laws, even the so-called experts. In trying to get clarification about New York State's laws, for example, a spokesman for the New York State Liquor Authority would speak to me over the phone only with a lawyer present, and the lawyer refused to allow himself to be identified or quoted. I was mystified by this. After all, we're talking about a matter of law, which should be clear cut, right? But I guess for lawyers nothing is clear cut, otherwise we wouldn't need them so badly.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Super Bowl Recipes! at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 360 x 240Close Zoom Window

Super Bowl Recipes!

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

United State of Arugula
Those tangibles of the American food revolution - take-out sushi at the gas station, salads of organic baby lettuces and obscure herbs, star chefs, restaurants as Mecca - are no coincidence according to our guest David Kamp, author of The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation. He believes a parade of freewheeling originals - from Julia Child to Michael Pollan - led us out of the culinary dark ages. We have the story.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Gluttonous Rite Survives Without Silverware at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 600 x 300Close Zoom Window

Gluttonous Rite Survives Without Silverware
Each slice was perched on a round of Italian bread, but most of the men ate only the meat and stacked the bread slices in front of them, tallying their gluttony like poker players amassing chips. Laughter and uproarious conversation were in abundance; subtlety was not. As anyone in northern New Jersey could tell you, this was a beefsteak. The term refers not to a cut of meat but to a raucous all-you-can-eat-and-drink banquet with a rich history in Bergen and Passaic Counties.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Broccoli, Redeemed at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 475Close Zoom Window

Broccoli, Redeemed
The only thing I would trade a piece of chocolate cake for would be a bigger one, I have a serious aversion to anything I deem to be 'too fishy', 'too gamy', or 'too chewy', and well, let's just say not all green things and I are friends. It's a strange kind of détente, this thing broccoli and I have between us. I mean I don't hate it in the way that I hate, say, Norwegian fish paste, but tolerate is not exactly the right word either. Cabbage, for example, I tolerate with no problem - I don't hate it, I don't love it, but I eat it without complaint when it's there. Cauliflower, on the other hand, despite being a close relative of both broccoli and cabbage, I love - roasted, mashed, gratineed, whatever. Ditto with artichokes and fennel and spinach and about a hundred other types of edible flora. But broccoli is just so difficult;...
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Saying Non To Disposable Chopsticks
Over dinner the other night with a group of friends, I was talking about the excessive use of plastic bags in the world. I told them I easily recalled 20 years back, when traveling in Europe, it was just a given that you brought your own bag to the supermarket and shopping with you. Now, plastic bags are everywhere, but I like to re-use them. Curiously, some vendors have told me I shouldn't do that because of les bactéries. Which I find even more odd considering they don't think it's pas hygiénique to rip open a clementine with their teeth, then hand over the sections for customers to taste.
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Groundhog Day at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 332Close Zoom Window

Groundhog Day
Somewhere in the marriage contract should be a requirement that only one of us is sick at a time, or who will wait on us hand and foot? Anyone? Hello? [Radio silence.] Germophobes. Nevertheless, this is a great time to catch up on some housekeeping, especially because I can do it from the sofa while Martha shows some beefy guys how to make brats-in-blankets–beefy guys, bratwurst… I'm starting to feel better already!
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Pots of Gold
You really were terribly kind last week about the whole budino debacle. When I gave you canned beans instead, you didn't even throw them at me. You really are angels. If I could, I would send every one of your mothers a note to thank them for raising you so well. But that would take forever, I fear. Heck, I haven't even finished the thank-you notes from our wedding, and the blasted thing was six months ago. (I know, Mom. I know.) So how about we just keep it simple? How about we take a moment to acknowledge, right here and right now, how utterly lovely you are, and then we go share a couple butterscotch pots de crème?
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Lovin' Spoonfuls at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 600 x 330Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: Lovin' Spoonfuls
The five minutes spent in front of a stove, dragging a wooden spatula across the pan to ward off scorched spots and looking for that subtle thickening that seizes the custard just before all-out lumps break out, are elastic, meditative, (ideally) unbothered - a reminder that sometimes the comfort of a comfort food has less to do with eating than it does with cooking. Today pudding doesn't tend to get a lot of play in restaurants - perhaps because it is too formless to have real visual appeal; in restaurants, soft desserts usually have more structure or a foreign pedigree - wiggly panna cottas or eggier productions like mousses, crème brûlées and flans. And that's too bad. There is nothing more rewarding to eat, spoonful by spoonful, than pudding made at home from scratch.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Big Pimpin'
Hey there, all you sexy chickens. I found out today that a couple of you gorgeous, gorgeous creatures nominated me for Culinate's Death By Chocolate contest. Does that mean you want to kill me? With cocoa goodness? No, it does not. Apparently, it means you think I need to spend a day tasting confections and drinking wine at a festival (which wouldn't suck) AND eat dinner at The French Laundry (OH MY GOD THAT WOULD SO NOT SUCK). Because those are the prizes. You guys rock.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

A Twist on Guacamole Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

A Twist on Guacamole Recipe
Great guacamole starts with perfectly ripe avocados (I always have to remind myself to plan ahead a day or two) - you'll know they are ready by cradling each candidate in your palm and pressing confidently against the the pebbled skin with the pads of your fingertips. If the flesh feels as if you might leave a faint mark, you likely have a good one. If the flesh feels as if it might collapse beneath your grip, move to the next - over ripe. Some people prefer the button test - you'll know an avocado is under ripe if you attempt to jostle the little stem button around a bit and it won't budge. Falls right out? It might be too ripe.
 


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