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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 January 27 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
January 27, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Notes from the Molecular Gastronomy Conference at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 370 x 246Close Zoom Window

Notes from the Molecular Gastronomy Conference
Our lecturer was none other than Hervé This*, co-creator of this scientific discipline that studies the physical and chemical phenomenons that take place in cooking. I am no longer used to sitting for hours in a cramped classroom, and my right knee made a point of telling me that, but someone like Hervé This makes you want to unearth that satchel and do it all over again: his passion, his enthusiasm, his talent for teaching, and his facetious ways make fourteen hours of lecture go by in a blink.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Customize, and Light Some Candles
Even those who otherwise enjoy cooking balk at the prospect. All that fuss, just for me? And the waste: buying so much stuff and then feeling obliged to eat what's left, cold or warmed over, until you throw it out. Furthermore, it's expensive. Recipes today call for so many exotic ingredients, such as two or three different fresh herbs, and you go out and buy several costly little plastic packets of wilted leaves that are dead the next day. While I do recognize the legitimacy of such objections, there are ways of overcoming the obstacles.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Roast Hazelnut & Muscovado Torte with Vanilla Icecream at Passio...Open Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Roast Hazelnut & Muscovado Torte
with Vanilla Icecream

Yes, you read that right. Two stomachs. (And before you ask: no, we are not direct descendants from cows). One stomach is for general food and the other is for desserts. It's as simple as that. I bet you would agree that that's a great advantage. But even though I am blessed to always be able to enjoy dessert, even I, on occasions, don't fancy a dessert laden with chocolate and caramel. Sometimes, I need something lighter. Not necessarily something fat- and sugar-free, diet-friendly and healthy. Just a little lighter.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Science Confirms Gold Plated
Wine Bottles Are Best

At the very least this research might be a good justification for price-blind (and potentially completely blind) tasting. Finally, there's the ultimate philosophical question that lies at the heart of this whole thing - the wine tasting equivalent of the tree falling in the forest when no one is around. Is there any real difference to us between a wine that is great and a wine that we THINK is great simply because it's expensive? I don't recommend attempting to answer this question until the second bottle.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Potato Skins at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 266Close Zoom Window

Potato Skins
There is nothing like a plate full of crispy potato skins, filled with melty cheddar cheese, and topped with bacon bits, sour cream and green onions. The first time I had these I was 21 years old, at an outdoor cafe on Newbury Street in Boston; I thought I had died and gone to heaven. Oh for the days of youth when one could eat potato skins with wild abandon! I could eat a whole plate back then (and drink a pitcher of beer along with it) and be none the worse. Sigh. These potato skins easy to make. You just want to bake the skins at a high enough heat so that they get crispy enough to hold the toppings.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Stock Making with Michael Ruhlman
This week it's the one recipe that can make all the difference: stock. Author Michael Ruhlman guides us through the steps to creating that essential elixir that, when well made, can turn a new cook into a good cook, or a good cook into a great one. His recipe for Basic Brown Veal Stock gets us started. Michael's new book is The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chef's Craft for Every Kitchen.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

At Last, a $20,000 Cup of Coffee at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 600 x 300Close Zoom Window

At Last, a $20,000 Cup of Coffee
Called a siphon bar, it was imported from Japan at a total cost of more than $20,000. Professionals have long been willing to pay prices in the five figures for the perfect espresso machine, but the siphon bar does not make espresso. It makes brewed coffee, as does another high-end coffee maker, the $11,000 Clover, which makes one cup at a time. Together, they signal the resurgence of brewing among the most obsessive coffee enthusiasts. Could this be the age of brewed coffee?
 

Gluten-Free Girl - Shauna James Ahern Gluten-Free Girl
Shauna James Ahern

The Joy of Eating "Mexican" Food
Give me guacamole - a big bowl of it, with a plate of corn chips - and I'm a happy, happy girl. Tender beans cooked in lard. Hot strips of sirloin. Fresh salsa. Queso fresco. Green chiles. And more guacamole, please.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Broccoli, Redeemed at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 475Close Zoom Window

Broccoli, Redeemed
In the perfect universe that runs parallel to our own, I am an equal-opportunity eater. I enjoy lentils just as much as chocolate cake, will happily consume everything from chitterlings to gastropods with relish, and welcome any form of vegetable matter on my plate with the kind of joy usually reserved for finding forgotten banknotes in my pocket. And of course, the last thing I would ever do is risk losing my card-carrying status among the gastronomically-enlightened by not liking something.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Chocolate-Covered Caramelized Matzoh Crunch
Seriously my friends, is there anything better than chocolate and toffee together? Especially when the toffee has a brown sugar-flavored buttery snap and luscious chocolate is smeared over the top so it hardens and melds with the crackly caramelized matzoh underneath. When a marriage is this good, a picture can only do partial justice to the love that exists between the happy couple. Shalom and gut yontiff to the happy duo!
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Anything-But-Clementine Clafoutis at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Anything-But-Clementine Clafoutis
Sometimes I cook things even though I have significant doubts that they will be in any way delicious. Why is this, how is this so, you ask? Because I live in a mental place I affectionately call Hope. I wish to be surprised. I aspire to be wrong from time to time because if the sum of the parts that together comprise the world as I know it is all there is, I'd be kind of bummed. I'd be kind of bored.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Tomorrow, Tomorrow
But oh, I don't know. I didn't love it. Maybe I did something wrong? Or maybe it requires a pinch of pastry chef pixie dust that the recipe forgot to mention? The pudding was very nice, but it didn't leave me clawing for more. The caramel sauce was likewise tasty, but it didn't make me feel like ripping off my clothes and bathing in it, which, let's be honest, a really good caramel usually makes me want to do. It wasn't bad; I just wasn't as excited as I wanted to be. Does this make me a bad person? A picky little twit?
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: Stock Options at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 190 x 143Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: Stock Options
My pantry is an odd and not particularly useful assemblage of disparate elements - an ancient can of sardines, half a chocolate bar that I didn't like and a small, sealed box containing wickedly expensive Italian balsamic vinegar that I can't bring myself to open. The refrigerator is reliably populated with milk, eggs, a few farmers' market vegetables and a bottle of Gay Caballero Very Hot Sauce (don't ask), but there's one staple that I never have on hand: stock. For someone who prefers cuts of meat that require long, slow cooking, this is a considerable handicap.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

"Coffee and Doughnuts" - Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts
Doughnuts? Me love you longtime. Walking to school in the morning, you could smell all the cakes, doughnuts, breads and cookies being made, and after school was out, we'd flock to the bakery to gaze at the wedding cakes on display, and order a doughnut. Or three. Glazed, sugared, iced, custard-filled... they were all really delicious... One bite of the doughnut at Per Se, and I could smell my hometown bakery with its flourescent overhead lighting and faux wood paneling, and recall how tall I was by what I could see in the bakery case. I could see the faces of my childhood friends and the winter coats they wore.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Olive Oil Crackers Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Olive Oil Crackers Recipe
What kind of cracker? The cracker recipe I'm featuring today makes thin, snappy, rustic crackers. Though they are sturdy enough to stand up to a hearty dip. The technique is simple and straightforward (utilizing just a few ingredients) and the dough is a welcoming canvas to all manner of seeds, salts, cheeses, spices, or flavored oils that you might want to use as accents. The crackers are fantastically adaptable in this regard. For those of you intimidated by baking with yeast, no worries, I don't use any here. You can make these crackers just about any shape you like. You can cut them into wide strips, thin ribbons, precise squares - or simply bake them off in big sheets.
 


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