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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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January 2008
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New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Invisible Ingredient in Every Kitchen at New York Times
Open Zoom Window 190 x 285Close Zoom Window

The Invisible Ingredient in Every Kitchen

Every cook relies every day on the power of heat to transform food - but most don't understand it.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2008 January 6 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
January 6, 2008

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Best of 2007 at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Best of 2007
As 2007 gets ready to tiptoe out the back door, let me catch it by the sleeve and sit it down for a cup of tea and a chat, in remembrance of what the year has brought. It can then go back to packing its bags, and I to my New Year's Eve preparations. (I have fifteen people coming to dinner and no game plan. Wish me luck.)
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Brewers See Higher Prices Ahead
Unfortunately, the new year brings portents of major price increases. Hang out with some brewers and you'll hear the phrase "perfect storm" tossed around a lot. A convergence of factors - bad harvests, reduced acreage, burgeoning demand for beer in China - is driving the price of barley and hops skyward. How much more will you pay for craft beer? "My suspicion is a buck a six-pack..." Very hoppy beers might increase even more or just disappear from the market as the supply of prized aroma hops dries up.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Grilled Scallops with Thyme Butter, Red Chilli & Parmesan at Pas...Open Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Grilled Scallops with Thyme Butter,
Red Chilli & Parmesan

While I do value traditions highly and even more so since living abroad, this year it was time to break with them. It did seem a bit silly to be holding on to a traditional Christmas dinner for years when all we could get was second or even third-class ingredients: so the customary dinner of (special Christmas) sausages and sauerkraut went out and in came an array of new dishes that shall from now on constitute our very own culinary tradition on those days.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Wine.Com Gives Retailers
(and Consumers) The Finger

But now, like the goodie-two-shoes kid on the playground, Wine.Com is sending letters to state government agencies telling them the names of specific retailers who they claim are breaking the aforementioned state laws, and requesting that the state take legal action on those companies. Which is sort of like taking down the license plate numbers of cars that are going more than 65 miles per hour on the freeway and reporting them to the highway patrol. Can you imagine?
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Eggnog Recipe at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 400 x 282Close Zoom Window

Eggnog Recipe
We grew up with eggnog, the kind you buy in a carton, and every Christmas holiday we kids drank up as much of it as we could. I didn't even know that eggnog was a "spiked" drink until well into my adult years. So this recipe is only lightly spiked; feel free to increase the rum and bourbon to your heart's delight, or omit altogether if it's for the kids. Is eggnog part of your family holiday tradition? If so, how do you like it - spiked or virgin? with whipped egg whites or without?
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Mindless Eating
This week we take a look at what controls our eating. Is it real hunger or something more complex? We'll have answers from our guest, Brian Wansink, director of the Cornell University Food and Brand Laboratory. His new book is Mindless Eating: Why We Eat More Than We Think.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Invisible Ingredient in Every Kitchen
No matter how efficient an appliance is, the cook can help simply by covering pots and pans with their lids. Some of the heat that enters through the bottom of the pot exits through the top, but a lid prevents much of it from escaping into the air. This is especially true when you're bringing a pot of water to the boil. With the lid on, it will start bubbling in as little as half the time. Turning water into steam takes a lot of energy, and every molecule that flies away from the water surface takes all that energy with it into the air. Prevent its escape, and the energy stays with the pot to heat the rest of the water.
 

Gluten-Free Girl - Shauna James Ahern Gluten-Free Girl
Shauna James Ahern

A Love Letter to 2008 at Gluten-Free GirlOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

A Love Letter to 2008
Yesterday, we anticipated your arrival by walking around Greenlake with friends from here and there. The sun set yellowy against grey skies around 4:30, or just a smidge later. That's one reason we like you - the new year means the slow subtle shadings of the return of light. Later, we ate a leisurely dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, at the totally un-hip hour of 5:30. We wanted to eat our creamy polenta with wild mushroom ragu in peace, not jostling with other folks at the bar. But still, the place was packed. People sure do gather in excited clumps and inebriated groups to celebrate your arrival.
 

Married with Dinner - Anita and Cameron Married with Dinner
Anita and Cameron

DOTW: Granada
It sometimes seems like Dean & DeLuca's mission is to curate the world's most eclectic collection of foodie curios. A trip through the aisles of the Napa Valley outpost can feel like a visit to Ripley's Believe It Or Not! museum ("Oh look! Salt-cured hummingbird tongues packed in oil from Madagascar!"). Of course, one of the great pleasures of cruising through such an outlandish assortment is that you occasionally run across something fabulous that's incredibly difficult to find - like a bottle of Schweppes Indian Tonic Water.
 

Serious Eats - Ed Levine Serious Eats
Ed Levine

The Cartoon Kitchen: Wild Rice Pilaf at Serious EatsOpen Zoom Window 483 x 622Close Zoom Window

The Cartoon Kitchen: Wild Rice Pilaf
So - Is This Wild Wild or Mild Wild...?
by Larry Gonick
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Goulash at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Goulash
Gooooouuuulash. I just sigh thinking about how delicious it was. Part stew, part soup, goulash a spicy beef dish originally from Hungary (gulyás were herdsmen) but found throughout central and eastern Europe, notably those parts that once comprised Austro-Hungarian Empire. It's got onions, red peppers and a lot of sweet paprika. Yes, paprika. Alex thinks this dish was just an excuse to pick up my fourth bottle of paprika (already in residence: basic flavorless paprika, Spanish smoked, Spanish spicy and smoked) this time the sweet Hungarian variety. And he's right: it was.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Happy, News
So today, I raise my glass in your direction. I wish you the happiest of New Years, friends. 2007 was an awfully big one around here, and awfully fast too. This year, I want to learn to slow down a little. Doesn't that sound nice? I want to take more walks. I want to sit on the couch and read. I want to drink more beer and listen to more records. I want to know Seattle even better. I've never been one for New Year's resolutions, but walking and sitting and reading and beer and records and Seattle, well, those, yes, I can do.
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

The Way We Eat: The Grapes of Wrath at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 600 x 300Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: The Grapes of Wrath
It was mid-July, 10 days into a heat wave so unrelenting that it had penetrated the thick stone walls of my parents' Umbrian farmhouse, and there was no relief to be found, indoors or out. There was also a big fresh Mediterranean fish waiting in the fridge — its name, in Italian, is ombrina. But not one of us felt like eating, let alone going anywhere near a stove. By the time the sun finally set that night, it was nearly 9:30; we jumped into the pool, cooled off and suddenly realized we were famished. Improvising with what was at hand, my mother, a superb cook, braised the ombrina in a quick sauce of tomatoes, garlic and saffron, and then, reaching for the nearest bottle, splashed some grappa into the pan - and so a favorite family recipe was born.
 

French Laundry at Home - Carol Blymire French Laundry at Home
Carol Blymire

Tasting of Potatoes with Black Truffle
But all that aside, wow. Really, just wow. This dish was not just a certified French Laundry at Home PlateLicker™, I'd say it also rates as a Thomas Keller FaceKisser™. Gentlemen, do you have a lady you'd like to impress with your mad cooking skillz? Whip up this dish, and I'm pretty sure you'll get lucky. Girls, need some new earrings? Make these potatoes and I foresee some bling in your future.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Lively Up Yourself Lentil Soup Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Lively Up Yourself Lentil Soup Recipe
It's hearty yet healthy - which in my mind translates to a soup that is filling, tasty, adaptable, and also delivers plenty of good stuff to my body. I can get much of what I need from a meal nutritionally from just one bowl. It gives me energy without weighing me down, and delivers layer after layer of flavor. The tang of the tomatoes plays off the earthiness of the lentils, and the fragrant bolt of saffron yogurt brightens each bowl. Delicious.
 


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