Fudge Torte
The Culinary Cuisine Report

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One cannot think well,
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       sleep well,
if one has not dined well.

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Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 November 25 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
November 25, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Homemade Tisane at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 370 x 244Close Zoom Window

Homemade Tisane
You see, I love coffee, I adore tea, and nothing warms my heart and my quill like having a hot mug within mitten's reach. But as I get older (I love that phrase; it makes me feel like such a grown-up.), it seems I can't drink caffeine like I used to could. I know, I know, herbal tea can be frightfully boring, and just uttering the words - whether you say "herbal tea," or "tisane," or "infusion" - can make you feel about a hundred years old.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

A Turkey That Really Comes Together
The potatoes may be lumpy, the cranberry sauce canned and the greens cooked to a dull gray. But if the meal's centerpiece, the roast turkey, has a beautiful browned finish and perfect rounded shape, all can be forgiven at the holiday table, right? What if the star of the show were to get a makeover - and not just a trim, but a real chop? Instead of trussing the turkey to create its iconic rounded shape, cut out the backbone and flatten the bird (a practice referred to as "spatchcocking") before roasting. Yes, you give up that traditional presentation, but the rewards - quicker cooking, juicier meat, flavorful stuffing, easy carving - more than make up for it.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Butcher's Method Takes Carving Off the Table at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 218Close Zoom Window

Butcher's Method Takes Carving Off the Table
Family members recognize the risks involved in taking a knife to a relative's hard work; guests often decline such a high-profile role. Add the inherent drowsiness of Thanksgiving, a cold day devoted to a single huge meal, consider the tendency in many families to start in on the house cocktail as soon as guests begin to trickle in, and the general unwillingness to put blade to bird becomes unsurprising. All of these are good reasons to adopt the high-yield, low-profile carving method - often followed by professionals, but new to many home cooks - that makes carving easier, if less spectacular.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Be a Wine Writer. And Be a Good One.
At this, Mr. Vonnegut (stubbing out his cigarette, of course) sat up a little straighter and got a bit of a glint in his eye, and said, "Oh no. Don't get the wrong idea here. You'll never make a living at being a writer. Hell you may even die trying. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't write. You should write for the same reasons you should take dancing lessons. For the same reason you should learn what fork to use at a fancy dinner. For the same reason you need to see the world. It's about learning grace."
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Thanksgiving Pie Recipes at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 360 x 240Close Zoom Window

Thanksgiving Pie Recipes

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Cradle of Flavor
When our guest, Saveur magazine executive editor James Oseland, was 19, he spent a summer in Indonesia. He returned home but his heart and appetite stayed behind. After 23 years of exploring the region, James has written Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. He joins us for a look at an enchanting cuisine and a world of new flavors and traditions.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

A Zippy Update for a Mild-Mannered Standard
As a child, whenever I wanted comfort food for dinner, I left the watercress-salad-and-fish confines of my parents' kitchen and trotted down the block to the Coopers' house. There I got to revel in delicacies such as Cool Whip, TV dinners and dishes made with canned cream soup, like chicken potpie. All that plus unlimited television access made the Cooper house paradise in Flatbush. Of course now that I'm a sophisticated adult, my parents' salad-and-fish model is generally more appealing, except when it comes to potpie. I don't make potpies often, but when I do I go all out, replacing cream soup with cream, pie crust with puff pastry and chicken with turkey if that's what I've got around. It makes for a homey, gentle dish that for me is pure nostalgia.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Trifling with Thanksgiving at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 456Close Zoom Window

Trifling with Thanksgiving
However happy I might be with my non-American life the rest of the year, as soon as November arrived I would start suffering intense bouts of homesickness, and all I could think about was that unlike the rest of my countrymen I didn't have travel plans to finalize, time off work to anticipate and a big feast to plan at the end of the month. I tried to quell my melancholy by attending the annual Thanksgiving dinner thrown by my American departmental colleagues, but nothing about it was right; there were no big bear hugs from long-lost relatives, no good-natured arguments lasting half the night, and far too much shop talk. And the food - well, let's just say that collective nostalgia does not for superlative eating make.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

10 Easy Ways To Improve Your Cooking
Take mashed potatoes. There's very few ingredients. But if you have good russet potatoes, terrific butter, fromage blanc, sea salt, and freshly-cracked white pepper, you really can't go wrong. Indeed, one of the non-secrets of good cooking is to buy good ingredients and do as little to them as possible. You don't need me to tell you a nice ripe peach tastes much better than a hard, out-of-season one. Or freshly-made mashed potatoes tastes better than those goofy flakes from the box.
 

Smitten Kitchen - Deb Smitten Smitten Kitchen
Deb Smitten

Moules Frites, Redux at Smitten KitchenOpen Zoom Window 500 x 333Close Zoom Window

Moules Frites, Redux
The average American's Thanksgiving intake measures about 4,500 calories, or over twice the recommended daily allowance of a full-grown adult. Our tables flow with an amount of food that would feed most families in the world for a week, many longer. We stumble away from them drunk, stuffed, our waistbands snug. We actually think that what the potatoes might benefit from another stick of butter.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Sudden, Huge, Gorgeous
I had a dream last night that the ocean was in our backyard, and that I was standing at the window, looking out at it. Above the water, the sky was overcast, thick with clouds. As I stood there watching, all of a sudden, one of the clouds shook loose and fell, just like that, dropping fast and heavy, straight out of the sky. It landed in the water with a huge, gorgeous splash, like Paul Bunyan doing a cannonball in the neighborhood swimming pool, like some exotic flower breaking into bloom. This year, Thanksgiving feels a little like that, I think. Like it fell out of the sky. It's sudden, huge, gorgeous.
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Eat, Memory: The Fish at New York Times MagazineOpen Zoom Window 600 x 468Close Zoom Window

Eat, Memory: The Fish
The catch of the day, garnished with pathos.

As soon as the elderly waiter
placed before me the fish I had ordered,
it began to stare up at me
with its one flat, iridescent eye.

 

Tea & Cookies - Tea Austin Tea & Cookies
Tea Austin

Happiness is a Case of Mariquita Tomatoes
My brother and I had an ongoing debate, when we were kids, over whether it was better to eat the good-tasting thing first, or leave it for last. He always gobbled up the good stuff immediately, I wanted it to be the last flavor that remained in my mouth at the end of the meal so I waited (I also wanted to lord it over him that I still had yummy stuff to eat while his was long gone; sibling rivalry knew no bounds in our household). Old habits are hard to break. I saved my pasta for last.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Spice-kissed Pumpkin Pie at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 475 x 237Close Zoom Window

Spice-kissed Pumpkin Pie
Kathy approaches blends the way a parfumeur might approach making a scent - by using bass notes, midnotes (like tumeric or coriander), and top notes (like rose petals). ...and she mentioned that major spices tend to fall into five basic flavor groups:

Sweet: allspice, anise, cassia, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla

Pungent: ajowan, asafetida, caraway, cardamom, celery seed, cloves, cumin, dill seed, fenugreek seed, galangal, ginger, juniper, licorice, mace, nigella, orris root, star anise

Tangy: amchur, barbery, black lime, caper, kokam, pomegranate, sumac, tamarind, zest

Hot: chile, horseradish, mustard, black/white pepper, wasabi

Unifying/Amalgamating: coriander seed, fennel seed, paprika, poppy seed, sesame, turmeric, fennel seed
 


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