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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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New York Times
Dining and Wine

It's Guide Book Season at New York Times
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It's Guide Book Season

For the first time, the latest editions for 2008 of the two restaurant guide books were published on the same day. The guides generally agree on the quality of a number of the restaurants. But there are some differences.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 October 14 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
October 14, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Jo Jo Potatoes at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Jo Jo Potatoes
You see, in France, those who visit the Fast Food Chain with the Golden Arches are given a choice of two potato sides with their (quote unquote) burger: dishwater blond, slim fries (des frites), or skin-on, breaded and fried potato wedges called deluxe potatoes, pronounced with a French accent and served with a mayo-like dressing. I used to like these crusty and tender-hearted potatoes very much but, having had the opportunity to try them again more recently, I was disappointed to find that they now taste to me like hot cardboard.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Heart and Soul
And you end up in the kitchen with your memories. And the water is running, and you are washing a chicken. Dumping cups of flour in a brown bag, shaking in seasoning, salt and pepper, heating up oil in a cast-iron skillet. Waiting for the oil to get hot. Dropping in just a touch of flour to watch it bubble. Coating the chicken with the flour and placing the chicken in the oil, tenderly, piece by piece. Jumping back from the oil as it leaps from the skillet, chasing you like it did when you were a little girl. And from a distance, you watch the chicken fry until it turns brown. Golden.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Passion Fruit & Coconut Mini-Cheesecakes at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Passion Fruit & Coconut Mini-Cheesecakes
I love their slightly wrinkly looks, the beautiful smooth lining of the inside of their skins (plus the intriguing knobbly bits), their gorgeous sweet, but at the same time refreshing, smell, the beautiful deep yellow colour of the juice and the glistening dark seeds. Their smell is intoxicating and so is their taste. Passion fruit is not something I had a lot when I grew up, in fact, I don't even remember having my first passion fruit - (and you thought that was where this story was heading, didn't you! In fact, I am not sure this story is heading anywhere at the moment, so let's move on...)
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Tasting Portuguese Table Wines
In general, I have to say that I was fairly disappointed with the quality of the wines. There were a few decent ones, but there were no wines that really lit me up and got me excited. My guess is that after centuries of making sweet dessert wines the country is just starting to figure out the potential of making high quality dry table wines and that they've definitely got a ways to go.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Pumpkin Ginger Nut Muffins at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 360 x 240Close Zoom Window

Pumpkin Ginger Nut Muffins
You can mix everything by hand with a wooden spoon, don't need an electric mixer. Baking soda and eggs are the leavening agents, so you don't have to worry about old baking powder that refuses to rise. The one cup of pumpkin purée can come from a can, or from leftover baked squash, any winter squash will do - butternut squash, acorn, pumpkin - they'll all work. If you don't like nuts, keep them out. If you like raisins, add them in. The ginger gives the pumpkin a nice spicy kick, but if you don't like ginger, skip it. This pumpkin muffin recipe is very flexible.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Living in a Foreign Language
This week it's the story of a man who moved for food (a little dream house in Italy helped.) Actor and writer Michael Tucker joins us for a look at how values shifted, tastes simplified and a family changed because of one impulsive act. Michael's book is Living in a Foreign Language: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Love in Italy.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Picky Eaters? They Get It From You
A week's worth of dinners looks like this: Noodles. Noodles. Noodles. Noodles. French fries. Noodles. On the seventh day, the 5-year-old might indulge in a piece of pizza crust, with no sauce or cheese. But for parents who worry that their children will never eat anything but chocolate milk, Gummi vitamins and the occasional grape, a new study offers some relief. The message to parents: It's not your cooking, it's your genes.
 

La Tartine Gourmande - Béatrice Peltre La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

The Bikes and Walkers of Paris
So this time, my plan was loose, with the exception of wishing to stay outside as much as I could, to enjoy the air and sun, fill my eyes and senses with the beauty of the place, just happy to walk without a purpose. I did not feel curious to visit famous Parisian pastry stores, restaurants and cafés, or look for the latest coolest cup to bring home with me - well, I did stop to grab a few new food props and pieces of cloth, but that is passage obligé ! Instead, I walked and walked, until my legs and feet felt sore.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Project Vanilla at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 458Close Zoom Window

Project Vanilla
I don't bake my own bread. I don't roll my own pasta. I don't simmer my own stocks. I don't make my own yogurt, cheese, beer, wine, or jam. I don't grow my own vegetables or herbs. I have been known to churn my own butter, but if you knew how insanely easy that is you wouldn't think much of it. I don't, as a matter of course, can, pickle, bottle or preserve much of anything. While I might do any one of these things occasionally - purely for culinary kicks, mind you - if you assumed my fridge and shelves are full of anything other than what I bought at the supermarket last time I was there, I'm sorry to say you'd be sorely, sadly mistaken.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

My Favorite Knife
There's a nice, long bread knife, several fancy Japanese knives, a terrific 3-inch paring knife that I lost and found ten years later sitting in a silverware bin, a jumbo Martin Yan Chinese cleaver, and a flexible boning knife, which we used to simply call a 'boner' in the restaurant. (Which we did simply because in our juvenile fashion, we got a kick out of asking our fellow cooks, "Can I use your boner?")
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

More Fear of Frying at Cooking with AmyOpen Zoom Window 450 x 338Close Zoom Window

More Fear of Frying
So here's another reason to hate frying. What a mess! Delicious? Sure. But what a bother! Risotto should be served fresh, it should be "al dente" not nearly as soft as regular steamed rice and it should be saucy. It should ooze. It's the perfect palette for seafood or vegetables. I've made it with everything from spring peas to mushrooms to winter beets. There is even a recipe for making it with strawberries. If you do have leftover risotto, frying it up is probably the best solution short of tossing it out. But I'm warning you now, it will be messy.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Lots of Trouble
That's fine. That's classic. But to take four pounds of thinly sliced tart apples, three measly tablespoons of sugar, and two even more measly tablespoons of butter, bake them together overnight in a low, low oven (while you toss and turn, I might add, waiting for the house to burn down), and expect a magical transformation, a delightful gâteau aux pommes, something that looks and tastes like the burnished, beautiful top of a tarte Tatin? That's silly. Like, stupid-silly. Like,...
 

New York Times Magazine - Style Section New York Times Magazine
Style Section

Recipe Redux 2000: Le Bernardin's Croque-Monsieur at New York Times...Open Zoom Window 190 x 260Close Zoom Window

Recipe Redux 2000:
Le Bernardin's Croque-Monsieur

There is a direct relationship between the stock market and the menus in top restaurants, particularly in New York. When the market is doing well, people with money to spend go out to spend it - thereby serving as unwitting patrons of the culinary arts. The best chefs, who tend to be thrifty and conservative in leaner times, use that money to underwrite culinary experiments that stamp an era as boldly as red suspenders or an infinity pool.
 

Tea & Cookies - Tea Austin Tea & Cookies
Tea Austin

Gluten-free Girl at Tea & CookiesOpen Zoom Window 500 x 375Close Zoom Window

Gluten-free Girl
At one point a doctor decided I must be allergic to milk and told my mother to take me off all dairy products. This meant no cheese for cheese sandwiches, and with no meat because we were vegetarians I ate peanut butter nearly every day: peanut butter and jelly; peanut butter and banana; peanut butter and honey. I eventually grew out of the earaches, but the legacy remains: if you offer me peanut butter, I will turn it down. (unless there is chocolate involved - then it's a whole new game and all bets are off).
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

20 Things I Encountered in Rome at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

20 Things I Encountered in Rome
Mind-rattling church bells at 7 a.m... Every public clock set to different times... A gang of five ten-year-old girls adeptly pick-pocketing strangers... A school bus on foot or scuola bus a pied! Eight tiny kids following their "driver" in tight formation as they walked on to the next stop... Potato rosemary flatbread drizzled with olive oil... Pavarotti posters large in music store windows.
 


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