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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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September 2007
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La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

Giving in to Dark Chocolate Custard at La Tartine Gourmande
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Giving in to Dark Chocolate Custard

It is just a simple custard, you know, with dark chocolate, milk, cream, egg yolks and sugar.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 September 30 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
September 30, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Coconut Ice Cream from the Pantry at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Coconut Ice Cream from the Pantry
Even after you've set aside the ones that call for fresh coconuts, (I've refused to deal with them myself ever since an unfortunate incident involving two members of my immediate family, an innocent coconut, and a fourth floor balcony.), there is no dearth of coconut ice cream recipes roaming the wild wild internet. ...but I wanted - and got - the best of both worlds: a base of coconut milk, its authority tempered by evaporated milk, and plenty of toasted flecks of coconut in each mouthful.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

From the Pumpkin Patch
Pumpkin ale has a quaint ring to the name, as though it ought to be quaffed from leather tankards at Renaissance fairs by village rogues and saucy wenches. But this quirky style is threatening to replace Oktoberfest lager as America's favorite fall seasonal. These days, you're not likely to encounter an unpleasant twang in the half-dozen or so pumpkin ales on the market. But you won't find much pumpkin, either. Most of the flavor in these beers comes from a heavy dose of spices. Cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves are the most common components.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Sticky Buns with Apricots, Pistachios and Cardamom - a Daring Bakers Cha...Open Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Sticky Buns with Apricots, Pistachios and Cardamom - a Daring Bakers Challenge
Well, the day has come. It wasn't easy for me, I have to admit, as this goes completely against how I normally function: I tend to see recipes, mull them about in my mind for a little while and then set about re-creating them, with more or less variation. Sometimes, the end product will be very close to the original, in most cases, it'll differ quite a lot. There are very few recipes that I follow by the book, but that's exactly what the DB challenge is all about: you get a recipe, you make it. End of story. Very little room to stray from the set path.
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

The World's Best Sake:
Tasting the Joy of Sake 2007

And I really do mean concentrate. Tasting sake is much more difficult than wine. The flavors and aromas are much more subtle, and because sake (even more so than wine) really should be paired with food, there's also a constant need to be nibbling on something as I go along. Which slows me down even more. ...I tasted all 133 daiginjo sakes that were available.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Poppy Seed Kolache at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 380 x 268Close Zoom Window

Poppy Seed Kolache
Called "kolache" (koh-LAH-chee), "kolacky" (koh-LAH-kee), or how my dad pronounces it, koh-LAH-chkey, these Czechoslovakian yeast-based pastries can be filled with any sweet pie or pastry filling. I think he was successful, so much so that the day after making and eating these, he announced that he had gained 2 pounds, prompting him to give up dessert for two whole days. (Please God, in my next life, could I have my father's metabolism?)
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

The Connoisseur's Guide to Sushi
This week it's everything sushi — the things you didn't know you need to know, like what should not be in your soy sauce, and the big clue to whether the sushi maker is a master or not. Our guide is Dave Lowry, author of The Connoisseur's Guide to Sushi: Everything You Need to Know About Sushi Varieties and Accompaniments, Etiquette and Dining Tips and More.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

La Tartine Gourmande - Béatrice Peltre La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

Giving in to Dark Chocolate Custard
It is just a simple custard, you know, with dark chocolate, milk, cream, egg yolks and sugar. The important thing is to never let the cream boil, otherwise it is over. C'est vraiment fini! Bubbles? Bubbles means boiling. Didn't I just say it should never boil? Of course you can always save a custard if it boils, that is when the egg yolks boil. To do so, simply pour the cream in a glass bottle and shake energetically for 2 to 3 min, or place it in a cold recipient and whip with an electrical mixer. The custard will be smooth and creamy again.
 

New York Times - Eric Asimov - Dining and Wine New York Times
Eric Asimov - Dining and Wine

A Hiccup in Screw Tops' Acceptance at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 215Close Zoom Window

A Hiccup in Screw Tops' Acceptance
Winemakers battle endlessly with air. Yet a little bit of air can be a good thing. Depriving a wine completely of air can produce the opposite of oxidation, reduction. Broadly speaking, reduction is a kind of catchall term for the bad things that can happen in what scientists call anaerobic conditions. Those bad things involve sulfur chemistry and can ultimately include aromas of burned rubber, cabbage and rotten eggs. Yes, screw caps, the good guys in the battle against corked wines, have been implicated in reduction problems.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Sans Beurre
I know I sounds like an insufferable snob (more than I normally do), but like chocolate, if you're going to eat it, you may as well eat the best since the good stuff has the same amount of calories as the crappy stuff. Many say it's the quality of the cream, or what the cows eat. It's also due to the fact that the butter is made from slightly-soured cream which gives it a nutty, mellow tang, whereas much of the commercial butter in America has culture added later on. This ain't Paris, that's for sure...
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

Mustard Roasted Potatoes: Recipe at Cooking with AmyOpen Zoom Window 400 x 300Close Zoom Window

Mustard Roasted Potatoes: Recipe
One of the recipes that made a big impression on me...was red potatoes tossed with Dijon mustard, cumin, paprika, chili and cayenne. Seriously, these potatoes are like candy they are so good! They are as addictive as french fries but infinitely healthier. Serve them as a side dish but make extras because they reheat fabulously well and even make a great snack. This is also about the least fussy recipe ever, you really can't go wrong with it.
 

Orangette - Molly Wizenberg Orangette
Molly Wizenberg

Start with Tomato Sauce
As chance would have it, some twenty-odd years and many TV dinners later, it would be a tomato sauce, made alone in his apartment kitchen, that would send Adam head over heels in love with cooking. I read this late one night, and it sounded so lovely and so right, and though half-asleep in my pink striped pajama pants, I thought, Tomato sauce! TOMATO SAUCE, Molly! How can you have toddled along all this time - writing this silly so-called food blog, marrying a man who lives and breathes for pizza, writing a cookbook, for crying out loud - if you've never made tomato sauce? It was an important night.
 

Tea & Cookies - Tea Austin Tea & Cookies
Tea Austin

Why Did the Food Blogger Cross the Road? at Tea & CookiesOpen Zoom Window 500 x 375Close Zoom Window

Why Did the Food Blogger Cross the Road?
To get to the donut peaches! Donut peaches seemed to appear out of the ether six or seven years ago. They are alternately called UFO Peaches, Saturn Peaches, Jupiter Peaches, Peento Peaches, Saucer Peaches, or Chinese Flat Peaches. Why should one care about donut peaches? Well, they are low acid which means they are deliciously sweet; their skin is quite thin and soft which means you don't need bother with peeling them; and while it is true that eating a round peach with the sticky juices running down your face and arm and into the crook of your elbow is one of summer's great delights, donut peaches provide their own pleasures.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

In a Tortoise Tale, Rabbit Wins the Day
As a rule, I try never to go to a restaurant when it's new; I'm a firm believer in allowing time to smooth out the rough edges. And giving a fabulous place a chance to come down to earth is a strategy that has worked before. Call me crazy, but watching models and celebrities pretend they're not being ogled as they parade to and from the sidewalk for a smoke interests me not at all. Since Perry St. has been open for two years now, I figured it was safe.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Cottage Cheese Muffins at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Cottage Cheese Muffins
For those of you who haven't heard of her, Rose Elliot is an accomplished UK-based cookbook author who focuses on vegetarian recipes - three million copies of her books in print. One of the great things about Rose's recipes (generally speaking) is that many of them strike a strong nutritional balance. They tend to combine proteins, complex carbohydates, vegetables and good fats together in interesting (and delicious) ways. This is something that is actually harder to do than it sounds - certainly something I struggle with in my own cooking and recipe creation.
 


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