Fudge Torte
The Culinary Cuisine Report

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if one has not dined well.

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August 2007
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New York Times
Dining and Wine

So Many Tomatoes to Stuff in a Week at New York Times
Open Zoom Window 190 x 234Close Zoom Window

So Many Tomatoes to Stuff in a Week

Of all the produce that tastes amazingly better in season - peaches and apricots, strawberries and peas - none inspires the same cultish devotion as summer tomatoes.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 August 26 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
August 26, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Dark Chocolate Sorbet at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Dark Chocolate Sorbet
Chocolate ice cream is all right, I guess*, but I find that the dairy gets in the way of the chocolate. A good sorbet, on the other hand, made with just chocolate, water, and sugar, delivers the sort of undiluted chocolate punch I hunger for, of which one only needs a small amount - the frozen equivalent of the square of extra-dark, extra-smooth chocolate the doctors prescribe you place on your tongue to melt, each day after lunch.

* Oh my god, did she just say, "Chocolate ice cream is all right I guess"? Nurse!
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

The Geography of Flavor
Changing Tastes. His expertise: the esoteric concept of "terroir," a French term (pronounced tare-WAHR) that literally translates as terrain but has come to mean the way foods and wine express the soil, climate, culture and tradition of a region. Back then (2004), a Google search for the term "terroir" turned up almost no results, prompting the search engine to ask whether users had misspelled "terror."
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Salzburger Nockerl at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 246Close Zoom Window

Salzburger Nockerl
Austria has a great tradition of desserts and pastry, of course, a culinary fortune ammassed through decades of pilfering other peoples' smorgasbords of sugar-laden treats. But it was not the strudels and dumplings of this world that intrigued me, nor the various cakes and tortes you can find up and down the country: Esterhazy, Dobos, Linzer... I was more interested in the little gems that have become famous over decades and centuries, but not necessarily commercially exploited...
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Stop Telling Us What to Taste
"It has great blackberry and cassis notes with herbal undertones and a fantastic finish."

It's at moments like this that I remember a poster I saw in an office once that read: Stress: the conflict created when resisting the urge to choke the living shit out of some asshole that desperately needs it.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Grilled Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Hot Dogs at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 380 x 253Close Zoom Window

Grilled Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Hot Dogs
So, when dad says he wants to make a grilled recipe in our Mastering the Grill cookbook, he means that he wants me to do the cooking, while he'll do the prepping, which is more than fine by me. Do you like hot dogs, mustard, ketchup, cheese, onions, sauerkraut and bacon? Then this is the stuffed hot dog recipe for you. It's all in there, held in place by a wrapping of bacon around the hot dog. You can easily exchange the toppings for others, though note that the sauerkraut does help keep the cheese inside the hot dog while cooking.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Extreme Barbecue
This week we're grilling with all-American ingenuity, or what our guest, Dan Huntley, calls "contraption cooking." It's all about a special league of cooks who have cobbled together brilliant and often wacky cooking rigs. Dan leaves us his recipe for Pyro's Burnt Ends from his book Extreme Barbecue: Smokin'Rigs and Real Good Recipes.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

La Tartine Gourmande - Béatrice Peltre La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

A Quest for Eight Ball Zucchinis
Eight Ball Zucchinis are unpretentious vegetables that most people do not consider buying because they do not necessarily know what to do with them. Well, I stuff, stuff and I stuff again. If, like me, you think that small means cute, then you are bound to love the looks of them as much as I do. Imagine mixing a leftover of cooked rice with spinach and some tasty cheese and fragrant herbs. Some cooks like to precook the vegetables before stuffing them, but I rarely do. I prefer to cook them for a longer time in the oven at a lower temperature.
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Can't...No...Won't Touch This
What are the absolute last words you want to hear when invited to someone's home for a meal? Well, how about...

"We had some fish that was about to go bad, so we're having it for dinner."

Welcome to my world. A world you thought was all baguettes and chocolate. Well it now includes dubious fish too.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Dog Days, Fruit Nights at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 453Close Zoom Window

Dog Days, Fruit Nights
August is when the waiting finally pays off; the local raspberries, tayberries and blackberries are finally sweet, France's plums and Italy's nectarines and Turkey's cherries are being harvested so thick and fast that they have no choice but to offload some of the surplus on us. And needless to say, after so many months of fruit famine we don't pull any punches, buying the stuff in quantities more in line with industrial application than personal consumption.
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

Using Japanese Ingredients Anew at Cooking with AmyOpen Zoom Window 448 x 279Close Zoom Window

Using Japanese Ingredients Anew
Before taking on the recipes you'll want to hunt down ingredients like maccha (green tea powder), umeboshi (pickled plum) miso (fermented soy bean paste) and yuzu juice (citron). Gower also uses other "flavor blast" ingredients that aren't Japanese like one of my favorites, pomegranate molasses. Sadly many of the ingredients such as kinki fish, Japanese soy lecithin sheets and live abalone, and techniques like cold smoking and using co2 canisters are likely to be inaccessible to the home cook.
 

Tea & Cookies - Tea Austin Tea & Cookies
Tea Austin

Lemon Blueberry Buckwheat Pancakes
The next morning we woke to a world shrouded in fog and chill, and backtracked into town for a hot breakfast. Ever since then I live by this rule: if a bike is involved, it's time for pancakes. I don't often have leftover pancakes, because I usually make partial recipes, but I was intrigued by the ziplock bag idea. Perhaps this was the best of all possible worlds, perhaps I could have my bicycle and my pancakes - to go! For this I'd need a new pancake recipe, something sturdy and filling...
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Dropping the Chicken at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 296Close Zoom Window

Dropping the Chicken
Shapiro astutely observes that on the show, "even the food seemed to be a live, spontaneous participant. Julia welcomed it warmly ... letting it surprise and delight her, very nearly bantering with it." But Julia never did drop that chicken she was said to have dropped, Shapiro reports, and her first meal in France may well not have been the sole meunière of legend. Reading Shapiro reminds us how Julia Child taught us not just how to cook but how to think about food, a quality sorely missing from the work of the glib TV chefs who've followed her.
 

The Minimalist - Mark Bittman - New York Times The Minimalist
Mark Bittman - New York Times

For the Best Cuts, Here Are the Rubs
Some people believe you can improve on a good grilled steak: the Italians use lemon and olive oil, the French compound butter or even béarnaise. But with true American chauvinism most of us believe that because our beef is better it needs nothing but salt and pepper. That may be true of the absolute best meat, but if you're going to tinker - and it's a good idea to do so when using subpremium meat - you may want to think about a rub.
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Madeleines Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Madeleines Recipe
Madeleines are her go-to cookie - she makes them for parties, she makes them as gifts, she makes them when people stop by her house to visit, she makes them when the wind changes direction. She will talk your ear off about the delicious scent of the browning butter, she frets about the appropriate amount of lemon zest in each batch, and she will expound on the merits of traditional metal madeleine pans versus newer silicon molds in the quest for the perfect golden scalloped cookie.
 


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