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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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The Way We Eat: Spawn Fishing at New York Times Magazine
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The Way We Eat: Spawn Fishing

For Alaskan salmon, every river
builds character - and flavor.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 August 12 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
August 12, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Sorbet Mangue at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Sorbet Mangue
The only difficult part to sorbet-making, I'm finding out, is to have the patience to wait until the bowl is cold enough. After that, it's just a bit of whizzing and churning, and voilà! In under thirty minutes, we got our creamy-cool, rich and smooth mango sorbet - precisely what was needed on this sweltering Sunday afternoon.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

Two Sides to Every Tilapia
It's the fish that chefs love to hate but shoppers prize, and both for the same reason: This fish isn't fishy. The consumers are winning the debate, though, and tilapia is swimming its way to ubiquity, thanks to selective breeding programs, improvements in farming efficiency, skilled marketing and the commitment of some big grocery chains. But then there's the taste, or lack of it. What plenty of customers appreciate as versatility is also what gives tilapia a bad name among chefs who think mildness isn't a virtue.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

White Asparagus Soufflés at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

White Asparagus Soufflés
So we've had a quite a bit this season just gone and although I still defend my view of the simpler being the better, I have been caught dreaming up some more innovative treatments for those pristine white stalks. So if you're looking for a more elaborate way of serving asparagus, this recipe might be for you... and if you're having trouble laying your hands on some white asparagus, try it with its green cousin - the taste will not be as subtle and elegant as with white asparagus, but the looks will be even more dramatic, I should think!
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

The Power of the Label
For half of the folks, the label read "Noah's Wine, California." For the others it read "Noah's Wine, North Dakota." In both cases it was the same wine, but everyone who got the "California" wine reported that it tasted better, AND that their food tasted better too. Just when you thought we were all gullible enough to enjoy wines more when we think they're more expensive, it turns out that we're so impressionable that our dinners taste better too. What's next? Better sex after a dinner where we think we're drinking better wine?
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Buttermilk Fried Chicken at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 380 x 253Close Zoom Window

Buttermilk Fried Chicken
We do our frying, of anything, in grape seed oil, which as the name implies, comes from the seeds of grapes. It is a high smoke-point oil, which means that you can get it pretty hot before it begins to burn, making it perfect for deep frying. It also has many known health benefits. We love our cast iron pans, but they tend to be quite heavy, and retain heat so well, that if you have a problem and have to lower the heat rapidly, you won't be able to do it. (I've started a kitchen fire with peanut oil in a cast iron skillet - not fun - if it ever happens to you, remove the pan from the heat element, and cover it quickly with a lid.)
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

American Artisan Cheese
Artisan cheese making is soaring in the United States. It's no longer just a hobby for a few, but a serious profession that could one day make this country a major player in the marketplace. Jeffrey Roberts, author of The Atlas of American Artisan Cheese, joins us with the story.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

La Tartine Gourmande - Béatrice Peltre La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

Me and the Lobsters
Living in New England and admitting that you have never cooked lobster could be compared to saying that you are French and you do not eat camembert. But despite the fact that I love to eat lobster, I had never cooked these marine crustaceans alive until this past Friday. I had been willing to on many occasions, but always found a reason not to. Well, in fact, it was a little more complicated than that. If someone else would have put the lobsters in the pot, I would have had no problem at all. I just could not do it myself. "Merde, les homards !" I thought as I looked outside. (Shit, the lobsters!)
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

10 Insanely Delicious Things
You Shouldn't Miss in Paris

I'm not sending you in search of wasabi-carrot-pistachio-veal verrines topped with fennel-durian marshmallows or raw sesame-crusted tuna towers with filo triangles served on square plates with a dusting of dried porcini powder and a scribble of sauce in the corner. Instead, these are some tried-and-true places and things that I like to eat around town and confidently recommend to all visitors.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Brownies, alla Nona at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 461Close Zoom Window

Brownies, alla Nona
I just didn't think anything could top chocolate and butter together, and I'd tried chocolate and olive oil combinations in other things and been left less than impressed. The longer I looked at the recipe, however, the more curious I got, and when I finally made them I couldn't have been more surprised - they are really quite extraordinary. Light as air yet deliciously moist, these melt on the tongue with a pure, intense chocolate flavor that gives way to only the slightest fruity nuance; if I didn't know better I wouldn't have been able to guess that olive oil was responsible for their mystery. They also seem seemed gentler on the stomach than a typical brownie, almost as if they vanish into a poof of air on their way down. Which I'm really hoping they did, considering how many I ate!
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

Amy's Favorite Cookware at Cooking with AmyOpen Zoom Window 450 x 338Close Zoom Window

Amy's Favorite Cookware
Cast iron holds the heat wonderfully and moves easily from stovetop to oven. It's particularly great for frying and searing, but you can also bake in it and if you cook certain acidic foods like tomatoes in it you'll get the added benefit of iron that leaches out in small amounts. It does take a long time to heat up and needs to be cleaned with care. Don't use soap on it! Scrub it with salt if you have to and rinse it with hot water but don't remove the "seasoning", it's what give it an almost non-stick finish. You can buy a new pre-seasoned skillet but there is no way it's going to perform like mine.
 

Tea & Cookies - Tea Austin Tea & Cookies
Tea Austin

Chimichurri Pasta: What Tired
Cowboys Have For Dinner

Made of parsley, garlic, and olive oil, with either lemon or vinegar for a bit of a kick, it's often served as a condiment to the steaks that a gaucho would certainly be eating. I was going for authenticity and couldn't imagine a gaucho whipping a food processor out of his saddlebag there amidst the pampas. But gauchos do carry knives—called facón—which are tucked into the back of their waistband. I don't have a facón but I do have a Wusthof. I whipped out my knife (from the cutlery drawer, not my waistband) and I got to work.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

First a Hook, Then Ink: An Artist's Catch at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 600 x 309Close Zoom Window

First a Hook, Then Ink: An Artist's Catch
Annie Sessler makes fish prints - impressions of sea life, mostly on vintage textiles, for which she uses fish themselves like rubber stamps or wood blocks. The prints, made with a process dating to the 19th century, are lovely, often haunting images. It's an elegant hunter-gatherer arrangement: he catches the fish; she prints the fish; then, together, they eat the fish. In Japan the tradition of fish printing, or gyotaku, goes back to the 1800s, when fishermen began using ink and paper to record their catch.
 

The Minimalist - Mark Bittman - New York Times The Minimalist
Mark Bittman - New York Times

101 Quick Meals? Make It an Even 111
"Put two quarts water in stock pot, add salt, set to boil. Pick up phone and call local pizzeria; order. Wait for water to boil. Answer doorbell. Open door, pay for pizza. Turn off water; let water cool while eating pizza. Pour water down drain." And... "Spread homemade lard (or goose fat if you have any) on slices of farmhouse bread; sprinkle with salt and paprika. Eat as is, or with scallions and/or Hungarian wax peppers." (Try substituting the phrase "lardo di colonnata" for "lard," and you will quickly understand how trendy this simple idea is.)
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Late Summer Favorites List at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Late Summer Favorites List
Japanese Tea: Ice Infusion. For those of you looking to take your iced tea to new heights, she goes into detail about cold brewing... "infusing green tealeaves with cold water brings out their innate sweetness, enhanced even further when you pile your glass or ceramic kyusu (the traditional small Japanese teapot, made of earthenware, stoneware or porcelain) with ice on top of the tea leaves. When the ice has melted, drawing flavor from the leaves, the resulting liquor is the green of peridot, intensely flavored, grassy and sweet."
 


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