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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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The Way We Eat: Double Happiness at New York Times Magazine
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The Way We Eat: Double Happiness

In Chinese cooking, there is an authentic way
and an American way.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 August 5 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
August 5, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Birthday Chicken at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Birthday Chicken
Just the thought of it made me want to go and hide under heaps of shoes in the back of our walk-in closet, which, you may be interested to learn, the French call le dressing. The recipe has you marinate chicken thighs with green olives and prunes until the next day, when you simply bake the whole thing, basting the meat often, until it is nicely glazed and browned with crusty bits on the outside, but still moist and tender at heart. Easier than pie and highly flavorful with its sweet and briny Mediterranean accents...
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

S'okay by Me if the S'mores Are Made Indoors
Whether a culinary trailblazing Girl Scout or the early Mallomar cookies or Moon Pies inspired the creation of s'mores, it's a sure bet that Graham, a minister, would not be pleased to see his legacy crackers keeping such sinful company. He was so convinced of the evils of pleasure and of stimulants such as tea, coffee and chocolate that he recommended cold showers, uncomfortable beds and a bland diet.
 

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Poached Egg with Sauce Hollandaise on Green Asparagus & Rye Bread at...Open Zoom Window 370 x 555Close Zoom Window

Poached Egg with Sauce Hollandaise
on Green Asparagus & Rye Bread

I admittedly don't spend hours reducing the alcohol and stock or mounting the sauce with butter - I make a leaner version that may not be following traditional line of cooking, but I do get by and nobody has ever (knowingly) blamed me for not making a "real" sauce. (Just to avoid misunderstandings, though, I do NOT use a certain brand of gravy granules, mix it with water and claim it to be home-made... I may cheat a little here and there, but I am not a criminal plus I do have tastebuds!)
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

The Double Edge of Wine Science
When Rotundone is present, the wine tastes like pepper. When it's not, the wine doesn't. Simple as that. People don't like thinking of winemaking as chemistry, despite the fact that it is very much so. The wine world lives in a strange dichotomy, where different wine lovers tend to draw very arbitrary and personal lines about just how much "science" they're willing to tolerate in their wine before it stops being wine, and starts being an engineered beverage. Hence the ominous nature of our increasing knowledge about why wine tastes like it does. The more we know, the less magic it seems.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

Nicoise Salad at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 360 x 240Close Zoom Window

Nicoise Salad
Salad Niçoise (pronounced nee-suaz) is essentially a French composed salad, much like our American Cobb salad, but with tuna, green beans, and potatoes, instead of chicken, bacon, and avocado. Salad Niçoise hails from Nice, on the Mediterranean Sea, though has changed a bit to adapt to our tastes. Like its American Cobb salad cousin, the Salad Nicoise takes some time to prepare, given all of the ingredients. This is one dish where setting up your mise en place (all ingredients chopped and ready to go) will help the salad come together smoothly.
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Jasper White's Summer Shack
This week we're cooking like we're on vacation with chef Jasper White of Boston's Summer Shack restaurants. It's all about uncomplicated, great tasting dishes you prepare in the cool of the day. Jasper has the tricks to get us out of the kitchen fast, including sauces for summer grilling from his new book, The Summer Shack Cookbook.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 200 x 240Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

La Tartine Gourmande - Béatrice Peltre La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

Italy and France around a Walnut Cake
And immediately, it reminded me of when I visited my family in France then, when I was able to pick fresh walnuts with my mum, at my uncle's farm. It is hard to describe the feeling I experienced then with words. Picking walnuts is something that many people do and do not think about, isn't it? It can even become a chore, something that you know you have to do, but drag yourself to doing. For me however, this activity tasted quite different and was special. And I will tell you why...
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

But I Do Have Tomatoes
My favorite way to prepare summer tomatoes is simple. You can, of course, vary it to your liking. I happen to like a lot of vinegar, perhaps because I'm around so much sweet stuff, I use more than you might customarily use. (And if you don't like it, get yer own blog. I'm certain www.illikelessvinegarinmydressingthandavid.com is still available.)
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

Brownies, alla Nona at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 461Close Zoom Window

Brownies, alla Nona
Once I had settled on the one I wanted to make - moist, fudgy brownies starring olive oil instead of butter, a chocolate-imbued union of America and Italy - I knew who it had to be: my nona, my maternal grandmother. Now, I don't have a drop of Italian in me and neither does my nona, being of sturdy Scottish and German stock, but due to a quirk of history she will always be my Italian grandmother because of what we call her. Nona told me once that she much preferred it to other grandmotherly names because it didn't carry the same connotation of age for her; for her grandchildren, it became the most natural thing in the world to have a nona, and we couldn't understand why everybody didn't have one.
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant: Book Review at Cooking with AmyOpen Zoom Window 265 x 400Close Zoom Window

Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant:
Book Review

But at sometime or another we all end up eating alone. It might be by choice or necessity. We might love the experience or we might hate it. Because eating alone is a private affair, we might just give in to secret obsessions or desires. This is the perfect book for someone newly single, but really, it's a book for everyone who enjoys reading about people and food and where the two intersect.
 

Tea & Cookies - Tea Austin Tea & Cookies
Tea Austin

What To Do With Leftover Spaghetti
Japanese noodles come nicely wrapped in one portion servings, but with Italian pasta you're on your own; I always overshot the mark. We often made a dish we called "Bachelor Beans" that consisted of heating up a can of beans, a can of corn, half a jar of salsa, and some grated cheese and eating it out of the bowl with tortilla chips (if we wanted to be really gourmet we added fresh chopped tomato and cilantro). We also figured out what to do with a bowl of leftover spaghetti: we made a big spaghetti pancake.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

Fine Diner to Riffraff: Tipsy Tales of 4-Star Benders at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 255Close Zoom Window

Fine Diner to Riffraff:
Tipsy Tales of 4-Star Benders

The Bordeaux was flowing, the foie gras abundant and the well-heeled epicures at Daniel were having a refined old time when suddenly all eyes turned toward a table against one wall and all conversation ceased. Just as she was getting to her bra, the maître d'hôtel got to her. Thus her drunken, wobbly stint as a stripper ended, and so did her dinner. She and her date, a smiling, sloshed man who had seemingly egged her on, were escorted to the door. "If she were beautiful, it might have been different. People might have been cheering her on."
 

The Pour - Eric Asimov - New York Times The Pour
Eric Asimov - New York Times

A Glass of Wine and No Thou
So I'm on my own in the town of Los Gatos, Calif., in the heart of Silicon Valley. The main drag has a Lamborghini dealership. The Ferrari garage is probably not far away. Meanwhile everybody seems to be driving restored classic cars like '50's Porsches (I do love that car), '66 Stingrays (also not bad) or '65 Mustangs (ho-hum). It brings out the contrarian in me. As I'm walking around I take advantage of California traffic rules by crossing the street periodically, just so the cars have to stop for me. Yeah baby, ain't no messing with the As!
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

Baby Bran Muffins Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

Baby Bran Muffins Recipe
Back when the book was first published in 1971 natural foods seemed to have some public perception issues (not unlike today). The front cover flap reads, "...if you think natural food is all pumpkin seeds and molasses, this new cookbook from The Times will come as a delicious surprise." One of the selling points on the back cover, "food to serve with pride - and without apologetic pep-talks about being natural or "organic" or "good for you." As the saying goes - the more things change, the more they stay the same. I spend a lot of time explaining to people that natural foods aren't synonymous with "neatloafs" and sprouts.
 


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