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The Culinary Cuisine Report

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New York Times
Dining and Wine

Questions Linger for Beard Foundation at New York Times
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Questions Linger for Beard Foundation

Two years after it was shaken by financial scandal,
the James Beard Foundation is still struggling
to rebound from debt.

Fudge Torte Archive - 2007 May 6 - Week in Review - The Culinary Cuisine Report

Fudge Torte - The Culinary Cuisine Report

The Culinary Cuisine Report

Week in Review
May 6, 2007

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Chocolate & Zucchini - Clotilde Dusoulier Chocolate & Zucchini
Clotilde Dusoulier

Ewe's Milk Butter at Chocolate & ZucchiniOpen Zoom Window 246 x 370Close Zoom Window

Ewe's Milk Butter
The first taste was disappointing: there was smoothness and freshness, yes, but little savor. A thicker coating on a second bite of bread revealed a subtle flavor of fresh cream, faintly acidulated, but it is the third try, with a light sprinkle of salt, that really brought it out. So, will I buy it again? Probably not, especially at that eye-popping price (4.80 €! for 125 grams! highway robbery, I tell you!), but I will reconsider if I find a more reasonable provider.
 

Kalyn's Kitchen - Kalyn Denny Kalyn's Kitchen
Kalyn Denny

Best Theme Nominees at Well Fed NetworkOpen Zoom Window 80 x 80Close Zoom Window

Best Theme Nominees

La Tartine Gourmande - Béatrice Peltre La Tartine Gourmande
Béatrice Peltre

Molten Chocolate Cake as a Dessert Emergency Kit at La Tartine GourmandeOpen Zoom Window 596 x 450Close Zoom Window

Molten Chocolate Cake
as a Dessert Emergency Kit

My dessert emergency kit was simple: good chocolate, eggs, sugar, flour and butter were all I needed. Classic baking supplies, vous me direz (you will tell me) in a pantry. In my kitchen, they are. As for the cakes? Ten minutes to prepare, less than ten to cook. And to eat? It would depend on the type of chocolate cake eater that you are. Moi? Of the greedy and fast type!
 

Vinography - Alder Yarrow Vinography
Alder Yarrow

Three Red Leaves at VinographyOpen Zoom Window 550 x 412Close Zoom Window

Three Red Leaves
Grapes just before harvest take on a special quality, a fullness that fully justifies their use throughout history as a symbol for the bounty of harvest and the pleasures of Bacchus. Bonus points for anyone who can jog my memory by identifying what kind of grapes these are.
 

Simply Recipes - Elise Bauer Simply Recipes
Elise Bauer

How to Roast Chile Peppers over a Gas Flame at Simply RecipesOpen Zoom Window 380 x 253Close Zoom Window

How to Roast Chile Peppers over a Gas Flame
The only time you'll ever hear my mother complain about her electric range is when she wants to roast some Anaheim chiles. Of course you can put them in a broiler, but according to mom, it's just not the same. She can never get the chiles close enough to the broiler burner, so that they don't burn but they do get charred. The secret to roasting a chile pepper is to char or blister the skin completely, so it's easy to peel off. Mom also notes that the flavor is different when you cook the peppers in a broiler. Cooking directly over the flame chars the peel faster and doesn't overcook the chile.
 

Washington Post - Food & Dining Washington Post
Food & Dining

At the End of the Line
He spends his nights surfing the Web to determine which fish he can serve his customers with a clean conscience. Seaver preaches the sustainability mantra with conviction. He has become convinced that at a time when scientists are warning that commercial fish stocks could collapse altogether by 2048, he and other chefs need to prepare meals that do not deplete the world's oceans.
 

Cooks Illustrated - Current Issue Cooks Illustrated
Current Issue

In This Issue at Cooks IllustratedOpen Zoom Window 183 x 223Close Zoom Window

In This Issue

Passionate Cook - Johanna Wagner Passionate Cook
Johanna Wagner

Banana & Blueberry Bread Pudding at Passionate CookOpen Zoom Window 370 x 554Close Zoom Window

Banana & Blueberry Bread Pudding
The closest I come to a family recipe book are scraps of paper my Mum tends to bring along when she visits (and the odd printed email as befits this period of transition we are now in where people send you things electronically, yet having it in your inbox is not much use if you are not in the possession of a) a reliable wireless network, b) a kitchen big enough to have space for a laptop amongst all your kitchen utensils and c) some sort of protection for your computer so the dough you'll invariably drop on it doesn't make all the keys stick together into one large space bar).
 

David Lebovitz - David Lebovitz David Lebovitz
David Lebovitz

Finally French
I am definitely French. Today I went to the bank to deposit 134€ to make a payment. I had 135€. The bank teller told me, "We don't have any change." And the funny thing was - this didn't surprise me. At all.
 

Traveler's Lunchbox - Melissa Kronenthal Traveler's Lunchbox
Melissa Kronenthal

A Happy Medium, with Eggplant at Traveler's LunchboxOpen Zoom Window 325 x 454Close Zoom Window

A Happy Medium, with Eggplant
I went from being aimless and agenda-free to being the world's most compulsive trip-planner, only that instead of stuffing my suitcase with lists of museums and monuments, castles and cathedrals, I started filling them with lists of food. Somewhere in this experience, I'm sure, there's a lesson to be learned. If I had to put my finger on it, I would say that in travel - like in all things, really - a happy medium is best. Funny how it always seems to take going to both extremes before figuring that out.
 

Cooking with Amy - Amy Sherman Cooking with Amy
Amy Sherman

Chocolatiers Come to Town at Cooking with AmyOpen Zoom Window 400 x 265Close Zoom Window

Chocolatiers Come to Town
Ever since Lee's doctor told him to eat a little chocolate everyday, I've kept a stash of over 70% cocoa chocolate bars in a drawer in the kitchen. My everyday bar is Chocovic's Ocumare which uses Venezuelan criollo beans. They sell all kinds of chocolate and are a good place to find something unusual or hard-to-find from the world over, including Valrhona's new 2006 Vintage Estate Grown chocolate bars, Coppeneur of Germany, Rococo of London, Domori of Italy, and more. You just know there are going to be samples, right?
 

Splendid Table - American Public Media Splendid Table
American Public Media

Hunger
"Hunger is a country we enter every day, like a commuter across a friendly border," says nature writer Sharman Apt Russell. She joins us this week with a look at the subject through a new prism - hunger as art, hunger as power, and hunger as revelation. Ms. Russell's book is Hunger: An Unnatural History.
 

New York Times - Dining and Wine New York Times
Dining and Wine

The Way We Eat: Book of Revelations at New York TimesOpen Zoom Window 190 x 192Close Zoom Window

The Way We Eat: Book of Revelations
If there's such a thing as boomer cuisine, it can be found in the pages of The Silver Palate Cookbook. With its chirpy tone and "Moosewood"-in-the-city illustrations, the book, published in time for Mother's Day in 1982, gave millions of home cooks who hadn't mastered the art of French cooking the courage to try sophisticated dishes like escabeche, wild mushroom soup and that new thing called pesto. Years later, mothers sent their grads into the world with their raspberry-vinaigrette-stained copies. And now, with the 25th-anniversary edition, a new generation will try dishes like chicken Marbella, which once seemed as risky (capers! prunes!) as the East Village. The Silver Palate was born of the women's movement...
 

Becks & Posh - Sam Breach and Fred Becks & Posh
Sam Breach and Fred

An English Baked Custard Tart
Growing up in Britain, commercially-made individual custard tarts were ubiquitous in every neighbourhood bakery. I have to confess, that although I loved the eggy, nutmeg-speckled filling of these little tarts, I detested the often-soggy, pale insipid shortcrust pastry that held the custard in place. It's not too sweet, it's extremely eggy (like a quiche, almost) and the nutmeg isn't exactly subtle. It's rustic, wholesome and it has substance, which is how I happen to like desserts. Maybe it doesn't look that pretty or fine, but the real pleasure is delivered at the moment you don't really care what it looks like any more. Mmmmm...
 

101 Cookbooks - Heidi Swanson 101 Cookbooks
Heidi Swanson

A Frozen Yogurt Recipe to Rival Pinkberry's Recipe at 101 CookbooksOpen Zoom Window 545 x 365Close Zoom Window

A Frozen Yogurt Recipe
to Rival Pinkberry's Recipe

Let me tell you, I was expecting something good, but in all seriousness, I may never (ever) go back to ice cream. And before you can say it, I'm not just sucking up to David because he's a friend (and he put me in his book!), his simple, simple recipe served as inspiration for a wonderfully tangy, not-too-sweet, creamy white cloud of perfect frozen deliciousness. And believe me, as a California native, I know good fro-yo when I taste it. It is a rare thing.
 


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